Painting
Building
the kit in sub-assemblies makes for painting both the chassis and cab
interior far simpler. So, after the chassis was first primed in Tamiya
red oxide it received an overall airbrushed coat of Tamiya acrylic dark
yellow (Dunkelgelb) The engine and gearbox
were base coated in Tamiya german grey, and all the metalwork parts
were mist primed in Tamiya hull red. All contact points were then
cleaned of paint, or masked beforehand, to ensure clean mounting points. I
manipulated the steering gear linkage angles during the build stage to leave
the wheels slightly turned. I always think this adds to the finished
appearance.
Tamiya hull red painted front fender moulding and fuel tank airbrushed seperately and test fitted to the chassis
The
cab floor and rear panel assembly were base coated, the seats brush
painted and weathered, and the cargo bed also primed in hull red
The wheels were primed then given two light mist coats of hairspray and then base coated. The tyres were brush painted with a mix of Vallejo's light and dark rubber. After a coat of hairspray the metalwork parts then received small scuffs and scratches to reveal some of the red primer.
One track link pad on each side was left un-glued so they could be test fitted over the running gear. The rear idler
arms were left unfixed so can now be positioned before final fixing to
get the perfect track tension. As mentioned all the swing arms are a
snug fit into the chassis fixings, so I left mine unglued to give me the
option of positiniong the vehicle on uneven ground.
The
six double sets of main track wheels are just test fitted and the
outers on the first, third, and fifth stations will be added once the
wheels are fixed in place
Trumpeter
provide the accurate late horn in the engine compartment as shown in
the pic below. Something all the Dragon 8-ton kits have still managed to
get wrong.
The running gear paint still appears a little 'glossy' at this point but all will be toned down in later weathering steps.
The armoured cab moulding will simply slot down after paint onto the
cab floor. Likewise with the engine hood/bonnet and side panels
Building in three sub-assemblies (bulkhead with instrument panel, cab floor and rear panel, and the top armoured cab moulding) the interior can be easily accessed with an airbrush whilst still seperate. They were again painted with Tamiya acrylics and once dry the instrument panel decals were added. I then applied a pin wash with Abteilung oil paints followed by some light weathering with both oil and pigments.
Unlike
Dragon, Trumpeter's 8-Ton kits do thankfully provide decals for both
old and new style instrument panels. One thing I found out after the
build was that the front vision ports had armored persicopes. These are
not included in the kit. It is something worth considering if leaving
any doors or hatches open.
Cab armoured molding test fitted to the cab
Flak 43
The kit's missing second gunners seat still needs to
be added and more research is required into whether a basket cage for
the spent shells was added to these mobile flak variants. The kit does
not include one! This was then painted in a similar way to the vehicle
but with slighter lighter tones of Dunkelgelb.
The
armoured shield was attached to the gun and along with the mount, dry
fitted to the cargo bed to check it all fitted well. The cab gear leavers were brush painted and added through the slots in the floor. The armoured cab, bonnet/hood, radiator, and engine side panels were all test fitted to ensure good tight connections
For
the unifying final base coat I chose Mission Models late 1944 RAL 7028
Dunkelgelb acrylic. This is a lighter toned dark yellow than the Tamiya colour,
so with the aid of hairspray, lightly distressing this final coat will expose the
underlying base coat and give the finish a nice worn appearance.
The
running gear was masked off as I wanted to leave the original darker tone paint colour in this
area.
Once the Mission Models base coat had dried I then set about distressing this layer with warm H2O, several brushes, and various sharp implements, to create small chips, scratches and scuffs. Once I was happy I then airbrushed a light coat of satin varnish to seal in all the work so far.
Due
to its make up and using their recommended mix of poly, Mission Models
paint is not as easy to manipulate and chip as with Tamiya acrylics. I
didn't go hell for leather trying to scrub too hard for fear of removing
the paint down to the plastic, but it took a little more effort to
acheive the desired effects. As
the underlying paintwork was made up of a darker Dunkelgelb tone and a
red oxide primer coat distressed areas left a pleasing combination of both
light and dark
chips, scuffs and scratches.










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