This is the 2016 ‘2in1’ Bronco kit #CB35214. It was the last release of
a series of sWS variants, that were based on the original Great Wall
Hobby mouldings stretching back to 2009.
The detail is sharp, and the armoured cab thickness is nicely rendered
to scale. Although there is a small degree of mould offset on a few
parts there is no flash and very few pin marks present. It is also nice
to see well thought out sprue gate connections, making removal of the
access easier to accomplish cleanly.
The all-plastic sandwich design of the front wheels is most welcome as
is the addition of plastic options to replace some photoetch parts.
Unlike the GWH kits Bronco have included a comprehensively designed
engine and although nothing will be seen if the engine hatches remain
closed it is a nice feature that many modellers will utilise. The tracks
are of the individual link type and although not workable they look to
be of good quality. The Bronco kits also include a host of accessories
that include Jerry cans and fuel drums.
The Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS; "Heavy Military Tractor") was a
German World War II half-track vehicle used in various roles between
1943 and 1945. The unarmoured models were used as supply vehicles and as
tractors to haul artillery. Armoured versions mounted anti-aircraft
guns or a 10-barrel rocket launcher (Nebelwerfer). Fewer than a thousand
were built before the end of the war, but production continued after
the war of an improved model in the Tatra plant in Czechoslovakia.
There are a few restored armoured vehicle images out there, but they do
appear to have undergone a complete re-build in places and not
necessarily very authentically. They are nevertheless a good general
source of information.
Most of the original Great Wall Hobby variants released were actual produced vehicles, but no photographic evidence exists that either the armoured searchlight (UHU) or the armoured cargo version was ever built. Also, although images do exist of the 2cm Flakvierling 38 fitted to both armoured and unarmoured sWS's, it was never acknowledged as an official production type. By the time the sWS was in production the 3.7cm Flak 43 was considered the more appropriate weapon.
This kit gives you options to build a supply ammo or armoured cargo version. I decided to build the produced supply ammo version and used the Nuts & Bolts 41: Bussings schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) and Variants as a reference guide. The book has a nice feature clearly showing all the design changes from prototype to production series by way of colour coded CAD scale images.
Whilst there are many photographs of the armoured cargo vehicle it does appear GWH used a prototype to base their original mouldings on. Although Bronco improved on many of the versions they later released, by adding certain components, they did not update any of the main series production changes that GWH omitted.
Most obvious on the exterior is the front ‘bumper bar’, the side vision ports; the wooden platform supports, the rear panel components on the chassis, the different front lights and the fuel filler cap.
The prototype bumper bars tapered in at the ends whilst the production series vehicles had simplified straight bars.
The two side vision ports on the kit are identical when in fact the production type drivers port was much larger.
The wooden platform supports appear to have changed although
photographic evidence in this area is thin on the ground. The prototype
version had the platform sitting higher than the production series but
how the wooden support structure changed in shape is unclear. Clear
images of the prototype vehicle support show clear daylight between them
yet all the images of the production vehicles I can make out appear to
show a solid horizontal beam from front to back. That could just be a
trick of the light so it’s difficult to tell. The supports included in
the the kit, although of the prototype design, do sit at the lower
height of the production series.
Below is a wooden bodied cargo variant but it is cleary shows that a solid wooden support seperates the bed from the chassis rails
The chassis rear panel in the kit is off the prototype. The production series had a step added to the offside. Apparently only one in four production SWS’s ever received a winch so if not fitted the holes in the rear panel still remained.
The image below is again, a wooden bodied SWS but cleary shows the production vehicle rear layout
Both Notek and Bosch headlights are seen in war time images
The prototype fuel filler cap was simply screwed into the top of the
tank and was obviously difficult to fill under the platform bed so an
extended ‘S’ shaped funnel extending rearward can be seen on production
vehicles.
Very few war time images exist of the interior on the armoured version, so areas of the cab mouldings are still up for discussion. This kit does provide a split bulkhead behind the driver on the sprue trees but oddly does not call it out for either of the versions in this kit!
Looking at images of the Flak variants it appears that a section of the cab roof was cut short at the rear to provide clearance for the Flak 43. The roof should end just behind the transverse strengthening bar. The area behind that is covered by a tarpaulin on a frame. I am not 100% sure if all the variants had the shortened roof, whether the Flak gun kits instruct you to remove the access or indeed just provide a shorter roof. This kit does have witness marks on the underside of the roof and witness marks down the interior walls, however, the instructions in this kit only have you remove the witness marks!
Another
issue Great Wall Hobby made in this area, and one that Bronco did not remedy,
is the mistake of adding folded crew seats against the rear exterior walls of
the cab armour. What you are seeing in the image below are not seats but brackets
for rifles. The two black areas in the image on either side of the bulkhead are
holes to which rifles passed through. It's a mistake in the kit, and
once building you'll notice that any seat with a backrest inclined forward is
useless as such, as you would have your face on your knees and your legs on the
transverse bench.
The nuts-and-bolts CAD drawing below clearly shows the issue that Trumpeter misinterpreted, however they also show a small inward return
to the cab armour where it meets the load bed. This is not present in this kit.
With final design features decided some progress pics of the build
Chassis is a one piece item
Front axle and suspension
Sprockets and idlers
Front wheel at full lock
Sandwhich design engineered front wheels
Drivers side vision port (original plastic part)
Passenger side vision part reduced in size
No front vision blocks are provide with kit so you will have to source/make your own if modelling them open
Cab floor moulding
Production fuel filler cab made from stretched sprue
Cab floor, cab roof and loadbed test fitted to chassis
Fully primed and ready to go!
Although I do not intend to beat up the paint finish on the exterior, there will have been prominent areas on the platform and side panels which will likely have seen some significant wear. For this task, I will employ the ever-dependable hairspray method.
For this project I will be using MRP paints. These are lacquer based and require thinning and cleaning up with a lacquer thinner and not water. These are excellent paints that can be airbrushed direct from the bottle without the need for thinner if desired. I found for base coats my 0.4mm needle worked fine running between 10-12psi. You do need a few coats to build up the opacity but what you are rewarded with is a lovely smooth and tough finish.
There is a
little confusion about whether MRP paints are suitable when utilising the
hairspray technique. I can categorically state they work absolutely fine. Obviously,
this is all dependant on the type and the amount of hairspray used and the type
and thickness of any overcoats laid down. There are plenty of tutorials on the
subject but personally I have always achieved good results with the Tresamme
fine mist cans of hairspray. I often decant and use via an airbrush for smaller
areas to be covered. Out of the can a couple of swift passes at arm’s length is all that is
required.
Chipping with MRP Paints
With MRP paints there is no need to protect any undercoat layers with varnish. It is tough enough to remain intact unless you really abuse it with sharp tools. Tamiya rattle can red oxide primer that I used is also extremely durable.
Chipping can begin as soon as the overcoat layer of paint is touch dry. I have found lukewarm water works better than cold in agitating the hairspray and the surface needs a little time to absorb any moisture. A drop of detergent can help to avoid any water pooling. Whereas even a soft brush or a cocktail stick is enough to scratch the surface on a Tamiya/water mixed overcoat, creating the same effects over this lacquer overcoat takes a little longer. Some modellers have even employed fibreglass pencils to start things off! However, if the ratios of hairspray and paint is in the sweet spot extremely fine chips and scratches can be made without too much effort. Good results don’t happen overnight, so testing the method on a shelf queen or spare piece of plastic card will pay dividends. Another plus for MRP is that it sprays so fine that many subsequent layers of both paint and hairspray can be added before any chipping takes place.
One method
is to use a multitude of colours under the hairspray. This works particularly
well if you want different coloured chips to appear under a single base coat layer. Try both bare metal colours on edges, and even a lighter
shade of the basecoat colours layer for example.
What that method won’t give you; for example, is the option to add say, further colour modulated coats on top. For this a little more hairspray will be required between each further colour change. Working strategically in small areas is the key. To preserve earlier chips and scratches, you then need to either uncover them again after further layers or keep proceeding colour coats away from those first chipped layers. If you take pictures of where different colours go down, you can use them as a reference when it’s time to chip over them.
Keeping overcoats to just one coat at a time, if possible, makes the whole process much easier and if you do accidently cover any previous chips, you can always use lacquer thinner to remove stubborn areas of paint.
