Building the 8 ton Sd.Kfz. 7 Mittlerer Zugkraftwagen variants (introduction and Trumpeter kit #01507 build)

I have always been a sucker for WWII halftracks and soft skins ever since I returned to the hobby, with Axis vehicles being a particular favourite. Over the last couple of years I have built a fair few Sd.Kfz.7 8 ton variants. Although Tamiya offer a selection they are pretty crude by modern standards so Dragon (D) and Trumpeter (T) are the only manufacturers to offer newer mouldings of this vehicle in 1/35 scale. They currently offer around eleven different versions between them. At last count both manufacturers offer twenty-six kits with both producing early and late towing vehicles as well as Flak variants. Both offer the same models with the odd variant being produced by just one. Dragon also offers combo packs including artillery pieces.

 

• Gun crew vehicles are available in initial (D), early (D & T) and late (D & T)
• Wooden bodied (Holzpritsche) versions are offered by D & T
• Self-propelled Flak versions carried four main weapons. The early and later armoured cab model 7/1 version Flakvierling 38, (D & T), and the three 7/2 versions; early and late Flak 37 (D & T), early Flak 41 (T), and late Flak 43 (D & T)
• Two kits that only one manufacturer offer is Trumpeter‘s 7/3 Feuerleitpanzer version which was used specifically at Rocket sites and Dragon offer the specific 1943 HL m11 version of the gun crew vehicle.
• Cyber Hobby released an early Flakvierling 38 variant in 2011 but I have no idea if that differs from the Dragon boxed kit #6525 of the same name that was released in 2009.

 

An early gun crew Sd.Kfz 7 in North Africa

 

As regards to builders, both the main ones were Borgward (designated HL) and Krauss Maffei (designated KM). The radiator housings received their emblems on earlier vehicles.

 

 

An early model Sd.Kfz 7/1 version Flakvierling 38

 

One variant that is missing from the range on offer is the earliest incarnation of the wooden cargo bodied (Holzpritsche)  These were first attached to the 1943 Typ HL m11 which retained the old-style metal driver’s compartment. The Holzpritche bodied vehicles were a solution to save on limited and dwindling Nazi supplies of raw materials. The first Holzpritsche vehicles built of the final m11 design were installed by the manufacturer Saurer as early as November 1943 and this is the vehicle I am planning to build at the end of this build log.

 

Early Holzpritsche fitted to the Typ HL m11

 

With both Trumpeter and Dragon only offering the final versions of the Holzpritsche which included the revised and larger wooden cab I will likely have to combine elements of different kits. It would be made far simpler if just one manufacturer got things right, but alas, both do suffer from their own inaccuracies and issues. To this end I am going to first begin by building both the final Holzpritche versions to see what will work best.  Once completed I will attempt to create the early version with the best of what both manufacturers can offer.

 

Sd.Kfz 171 Panther Ausf A

 

 

 

Kit:                                          Dragon 1/35 #6168/6244 Panther A
Tracks:                                    Masterclub MTL35001
Barrel:                                     RB Model 35B06D
Photo Etch:                             Voyager PE35084
Cables:                                    Eureka XXL ER-3514
Damaged road wheel set:      ET Model ER35-036
Resin Zimmerit                       Atak 35021



This kit is the 2004 Normandy anniversary edition with the slightly odd colored photo instruction sheet. Review can be found at:  http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/dragon/dr6168.htm

 
I was informed some of these initially released kits were offered with a metal barrel but unfortunately the two I purchased didn't!  Both mine came with rubber tracks. A later addition of this kit (@6168MT) was released in 2017 with magic tracks. 

The build was straight forward but the Zimmerit application was a bit challenging. My set was slightly vertically short on one hull side and also on one side of the turret. I used My Hobby's excellent but extremely pungent Mr Surfacer 1500 to fill any gaps. Once complete the Zimmeret was roughed up in places with an electric burr to show wear and tear and then the whole model was sprayed with Halfords (UK automotive brand) primer

Next step up was to check for any imperfection or errors to the build which would now show up more clearly under the primer. Again more  work was needed to blend the damaged Zimmerit to the metalwork underneath as the Atak resin sheets are a little thick scale wise. Once I was happy I proceeded to lay down a red oxide coat over all the bare metal. This was completed in two light coats using Mission Models red oxide acrylic. The barrel received a dark grey Tamiya mix undercoat as they were covered in a grey heat resistant paint from the factory

Once this had dried I tested out a Zimmeret paste colour mix to check for contrast and also to see if the damaged areas looked realistic. A coat of hairspray before the base coat would assist in removing any over spray and could be touched up later

Certain areas were also treated to a dark grey coat to give some contrast to areas that would be chipped later on.

Two fine mist coats of Tresemme fine mist hairspray were then applied direct from the can. Both hatches that will be portrayed as open were buttoned up so as the primer coat would have a nice demarcation line once the base coat was down.  Once the hairspray had dried I mixed up a Tamiya base coat of Dunkelgelb (Dark yellow, Flat white and flat yellow) thinned with water.  I have always found a water mix works best in conjunction with the hairspray technique. Once this had dried a second light coat again thinned with water was applied consisting of Tamiya Dark yellow, Flat white and Deck tan. This was applied from above as a highlight coat to all upper areas. Once dry I set about chipping areas that would receive wear and tear and to the parts of the vehicle that I had represented as receiving damage

Working in small areas dampen the paint with a little tap water (don't let it pool) and leave for 30secs-1 minute to react with the hairspray. I have various old brushes and cocktail sticks that I use to create the chips depending what is required. I always use a soft scrubbing motion at first, just enough to agitate the hairspray and if the paint is difficult to remove at first (usually due the the base coat being a little thicker in places) persevere and it will start to lift. A little nick with a cocktail stick in  places that are difficult to access with a brush is enough to start the process. A soft brush will take longer to remove the paint but will give more control than an old cut down stippled one so be careful not to wet the surface too much or scrub too hard as the danger is to lift too much paint.  Less is definitely more. Taking pics as I go along lets me see how to best achieve a realistic scale appearance.

 

 

As much as I enjoy this process it is very easy to overdue so I was as subtle as possible and used ref pics to assist me represent the wear in places that are most likely to receive damage and would automatically get worn first

The sprocket below shows how this process can achieve realistic results and is a great first step to the many varied weathering techniques to follow.

A good session at the bench had both camo colours laid down. Tamiya acrylics mixed with water were employed. For the red brown a mix of XF64, XF60 and XF15 were used, and for the green, a mix of XF58 and XF60. The patterns were airbrushed on free hand with the help of a few photos and I went back and forth with each colour until I was happy with the pattern. A light coat of hairspray was used between colours.

Once dry, and with the hairspray to assist me, I lightly scrubbed over the patterns to reveal the coat underneath. Any camo on the ridges of the zimmerit instantly lightened and it had a similar effect to dry brushing each camo colour with a lighter shade and it really toned down the overall contrast. Due to the hairspray any over-spray to damaged areas of zimmerit were easily dealt with. The next stage I tidied up all these areas by adding a little red oxide to the centres and ensuring all the edges of damage were in the chalky buff colour.

A lightened shade of the original Dunkelgelb was applied by brush to raised areas and also to certain chipped areas creating a 3D effect to the scratches. The next session will involve painting the odd tool left on the tank, the tow cable, convoy light and the exhausts

Once  the cables and exhausts were painted I turned my attention to the tracks. Once the Masterclub set was assembled they were given a soak in the last of my 'Blacken it' stash. I will have to turn to a few other makes from now on as I have not been able to locate any more. Once the tracks were burnished I set about weathering them with Enamels, oils and pigments.  I didn't go overboard as the vehicle would be shown left abandoned.

My next mission was to knock up a base to show the kitty off.  This is made up of a picture frame base with sides of plasticard and this was then filled with foam bricks. The surface was then covered with texture paste and left to dry overnight. Once dry a final textured layer of the same paste was added and a spare old panther was used to make an imprint of the tanks resting place between the weeds.  A grass mat was then trimmed to fit the scene and added around the tanks imprint.  A few strategically placed grass tufts were also added while the textured groundwork paste was still wet.

Once dry I set about adding more tufts and airbrushed the various groundwork mediums to homogenise the look. I used various earth colours for the paths and many shades of green for the grass and tufts.  At this point the actual model was placed on the base to check again for any fit issues.  I wanted the tank to look heavy and slightly sunk into the ground. Once I was happy I could now concentrate on weathering the tank to suit the groundworks. This included adding a few rusty elements and adding weathering streaks to the running gear.

The spare track links were now addressed and these were weathered with various rusty colours. I employed the speckling technique to these with various oils and pigments and added them to the turret and rear hangers. 

 

The next step is to build and paint some Panther and other dumped AFV parts and place them around the tank. I have a name for the piece so its just a matter of getting a plaque made up and its all done and dusted

After many moons the project is finally complete and awaits its first showing at the IPMS Telford Scale Modeworld show.

Cold & weary Opel Blitz

1/35 Cyber Hobby Opel Blitz (early type),

This is a first attempt at a winter whitewash. Using Cyber Hobby's 'early' six stud pattern wheeled Opel Blitz as a testbed.

 

3D Printed Sd.Ah 56/57 Ammunition Trailer

Having already built the only available 1/35 kit of the Sd.Ah 56/57 Flak ammo trailer made by Wiener Modellbau, a new 3D printed version is now available. The WM resin kit is a nice little kit and builds up well, but it is pretty basic in certain areas and lacks a lot of detail. The new printed version has been designed by modeller Darius Stucinskas and is available to download from: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-35-scale-sd-ah-56-57-ammunition-trailer

The single axle 1.5T trailer was used to carry ammunition for self-propelled Flak guns and were typically towed by late war vehicles such as the Sd.Kfz 7/2, Mercedes 4500 and Bussing NAG 4500. http://www.kfzderwehrmacht.de/Homepage_english/Trailers/Special_trailers/Sd__Ah__56-57/sd__ah__56-57.html

Apart from the obvious careful removal of support material and the clean-up of the little nubs where they attach to the parts there is no other clean up required. The detail in the printing is difficult to see in the beige-coloured resin so any imperfections are only going to show up after a light coat of primer. It is advisable therefore to primer the larger panels before any small fragile parts are attached. This way any issues can be addressed whilst still possible. 

The front and rear support legs are engineed to be moveable if you wish and the suspension and axle bolt to the chassis as per the real thing. With care it is also possible to make the handbrake workable. The only additional material required is some 0.3mm copper wire. 

A selection of tread patterns are available for the tyres and a wooden  'roof rack' can be added. Two optional rear chassis profiles are included both with their own support leg design. The sliding interior portioning grills are intricately designed and along with all the separately printed retaining hoops, clasps, wingnuts, and padlocks, make for an incredibly details model.

Constructions starts off with the axle chassis and suspension. The main chassis is printed in one piece but here you can choose from two rear braces with their own individual support leg designs. The legs are workable and can be positioned up or down.  

The front support leg can be built to be moveable using the small bolts available and will slide up and down. It is advisable to open the existing holes with micro drills to achieve a better fitment of the bolts as the printing process does flatten the exit holes a little.

The handbrake can also be built to be moveable using additional 0.3mm wire but care is required as the parts are very thin. Tiny pins and bolts are employed to achieve moving parts should you wish to.

A selection of tread patterns is available as are wheel designs so if you want to represent a particular vehicle it might be worth contacting the designer to request a particular wheel or tyre design.

The body is built up from a floor, four sides, a roof and a centrally located support bar.  Care is needed to align these tightly noting the slight floor design cut-out at the front which sits on the angled chassis frame. My kit came with the curved roof design although later variants can be seen with flat roofs and door designs with less hinges.

 

Any interior cargo and ammo will need to be attached before the roof is glued down.

Ammunition containers for Flak 36/37, 38 and 43 are available and these are printed open and closed along with the shell trays ready for firing. The shells are also available on the trays, separate and as spent casings, so all possibilities are catered for.

 

The sliding dividing grills are incredibly fragile, so special care is required removing the supports. These were employed to prevent the load sliding forwards are backwards in transit. Typically, the ammo containers were placed over the axle with additional equipment and crew gear at either end. Access was available from two doors either side and from doors front and rear. 

A wooden sided roof rack is also available and gives additional storage.  I plan to add more load items to this area.

I decided to model my trailer with both doors open on one side and with the rear door open. To avoid using all the 3D printed ammo boxes, plastic stock was used to bulk out the hidden boxes on the floor.  Any areas that were visible through open doors was also covered with ammo boxes or additional equipment.  Loose ammo boxes and crew paraphernalia will be kept separate to aid painting.

 

The last parts to add will be the very small locker door wingnut catches, hoops for the door clasps, and the padlocks and chains. I fear that some of these parts are so well represented in scale to be virtually impossible to remove from the supports without damage, but I will endeavour to salvage what I can. 

Build complete with additional roof box accessories ready for paint

This build was going to replace a resin Wiener Sd.Ah 56 trailer currently displayed with my Sd.Kfz 7 Flak 43 sitting on a windy Italian mountain round. The paint scheme is in plain Dunkelgelb so the trailer will receive the same monochrome finish.

I had a few ready mixed shades of Tamiya dark yellow and levelling thinner left, so I used these for shadow areas underneath the trailer and on the lower panels. The final coat is with Mission Models Late 1944 RAL 7028. This to my wonky eyes is one of the more accurate in scale appearance dark yellows. My Sd.Kfz 7 Flak 43 is highlighted in this and I recall adding a drop of Tamiya clear yellow to a subsequent varnish coat to get a more harmonised effect. This will receive the same treatment.

The attached roof box accessories colours were blocked in with Vallejo acrylics and the same manufacturers Iraqi sand was used to give pronounced areas a highlight which always works well with proceeding pin washes and post shading steps. All the 3D printed ammo containers and added accessories were painted at the same time. The ammo boxes deliberately finished in a shinier yellow hue to give them some contrast.

The final base coat layers were carried out was a fine misting of lightened and darkened MM Dunkelgelb through a stencil mask to the larger panels. This gives a worn patina finish I like to use which starts off the weathering stage.