I have always been a sucker for WWII halftracks and soft skins ever since I returned to the hobby, with Axis vehicles being a particular favourite. Over the last couple of years I have built a fair few Sd.Kfz.7 8 ton variants. Although Tamiya offer a selection they are pretty crude by modern standards so Dragon (D) and Trumpeter (T) are the only manufacturers to offer newer mouldings of this vehicle in 1/35 scale. They currently offer around eleven different versions between them. At last count both manufacturers offer twenty-six kits with both producing early and late towing vehicles as well as Flak variants. Both offer the same models with the odd variant being produced by just one. Dragon also offers combo packs including artillery pieces.
- Gun crew vehicles are available in initial (D), early (D & T) and late (D & T)
- Wooden bodied (Holzpritsche) versions are offered by D & T
- Self-propelled Flak versions carried four main weapons. The early and later armoured cab model 7/1 version Flakvierling 38, (D & T), and the three 7/2 versions; early and late Flak 37 (D & T), early Flak 41 (T), and late Flak 43 (D & T)
- Two kits that only one manufacturer offer is Trumpeter‘s 7/3 Feuerleitpanzer version which was used specifically at Rocket sites and Dragon offer the specific 1943 HL m11 version of the gun crew vehicle.
- Cyber Hobby released an early Flakvierling 38 variant in 2011 but I have no idea if that differs from the Dragon boxed kit #6525 of the same name that was released in 2009.
An early gun crew Sd.Kfz 7 in North Africa
As regards to builders, both the main ones were Borgward (designated HL) and Krauss Maffei (designated KM). The radiator housings received their emblems on earlier vehicles.
An early model Sd.Kfz 7/1 version Flakvierling 38
One variant that is missing from the range on offer is the earliest incarnation of the wooden cargo bodied (Holzpritsche) These were first attached to the 1943 Typ HL m11 which retained the old-style metal driver’s compartment. The Holzpritche bodied vehicles were a solution to save on limited and dwindling Nazi supplies of raw materials. The first Holzpritsche vehicles built of the final m11 design were installed by the manufacturer Saurer as early as November 1943 and this is the vehicle I am planning to build at the end of this build log.
Early Holzpritsche fitted to the Typ HL m11
With both Trumpeter and Dragon only offering the final versions of the Holzpritsche which included the revised and larger wooden cab I will likely have to combine elements of different kits. It would be made far simpler if just one manufacturer got things right, but alas, both do suffer from their own inaccuracies and issues. To this end I am going to first begin by building both the final Holzpritche versions to see what will work best. Once completed I will attempt to create the early version with the best of what both manufacturers can offer.
First up on the bench is Trumpeter's 2009 released kit # 01507 which they simply brand as a KM m11 ‘late version.
Having built this kit quite a long time ago not long after I returned to the hobby, I recall a few concerns that made it a less than pleasurable build in places, so let’s do a quick recap before I start the build.
The main spoiler concerns the sprockets. First up, they look a little odd. That is because they have bevelled groves on the main face which were never present. Trumpeter don’t even show them in their own painting guide or box art, so something was at odds! The biggest problem however is that building them up as per the instructions means the tracks will not fit over the sprocket without leaving a nasty gap. The kit’s engineering lacks the important drive sprocket teeth offset (seen on many German running gear designs) which prevents the track from sitting evenly around the sprocket. In addition, the part containing the outer roller detail once fitted is hidden on the reverse side! Trumpeter never designed the teeth offset of the rollers against each track pad as per the real thing, so the track links do not sit flush against each track pad. Each sprocket is also ‘handed’ so any surgery will require removing the same part from each sprocket then a test fitment of a small track run will then determine how you re-assemble each sprocket. The recommended surgery is not complex and TBH re-fitting the small tabs that require removal for the modification to work are not completely necessary. The sprocket modification explanation with pics can be found here: https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/trumpeter/tr01523d04.htm
If you want the sprocket to resemble the real thing aesthetically the groves will still need to be filled in, which will not be an easy task. Even then the track pad inner fitting plates and bolts are missing so for the ultimate authenticity an aftermarket photo etch set will still be required. Even better still, try and locate a 3D printed pair.
The second biggest kit failing is the omission of the wooden equipment rack in the load area. Although the equipment rack was designed to be removeable to easily convert into a flatbed the rack is an important element of this variant so why it is missing is a mystery. Trumpeter do offer some additional internal planking dividers, but it is totally inaccurate and all the planking is of four horizontal planks and not five as it should be. They do however offer a nice tarp for both the cab and load area, so there is a ‘cover up’ alternative.
Another distinct anomaly is the inclusion of a Flak variant cab bench. The bench did not have an angled cut out on the passenger side and the driver’s seat cushions were much deeper with a cut out in the horizontal framework to accommodate. The Panzer Tracts book quite clearly illustrates the correct layout which also shows a battery box instead of the two exposed batteries that the kit offers.
Comparing the kit dimensionally with the Panzer Tracts book 22-4, the overall length is a smidgen long compared to the drawings and the profile of the front fenders is slightly out. Neither warrants the amount of work which would be required to correct IMO. So, with the major fitment issue, the missing part exposed and a dodgy cab seating arrangement, what else can we expect?
The kit offers these licence plate decals
Even if accuracy is not a major concern, then some ‘interesting’ engineering and odd step sequencing is still worth highlighting. The chassis engineering is overly complex so rather than a nice strong one piece affair that all the Dragon 8t kits offer, a multipiece construction will need to be cleaned up and carefully aligned together to build it square. Personally, I believe this is the main issue with all the Trumpeter 8t kits. Too many parts when one or two would have been perfectly fine. I guess Trumpeter never embraced slide moulding technology like Dragon did! To complicate matters, the instructions have you add some of the smallest and most fragile parts in the very first steps! Considering the amount of handling still required this is a recipe for disaster. These are kit’s where the builder needs to plan ahead.
Kit content and sprue shots. To save myself a whole bunch of work they are all conveniently available to view here: http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=1250&l=en
Compared to the Dragon versions the detail is a little ‘chunky’ in places and although there was no flash present there are a few pin holes, many of which will remain visible. There was also a fair bit of mould offset on many parts on all the kits I have built. This will not only cause connection alignment issues if not dealt with but in some cases ruines fine part detail. There are pin marks and sink holes but not many in visable locations. Along with the main problems already mentioned I will try and point out any further issues as I go along.
The multi-part affair for the chassis is the same across all the
Trumpeter kits with only minor differences across the variants. Whilst
far more detailed than the Dragon equivalent it is a bit fiddly to
assemble. Dragon kits sacrificed detail in this area but much of it is
unseen once assembled and it is a much stronger sub assembly and saves
at least a couple of hours of work.
Following the instructions, we commence in step 1 with the gearbox.
This is instructed to be fitted between the chassis legs. It is a heavy
part and dangles between just one contact point on each side and does
not actually provide any real structural rigidity. To make life easier
it us far easier to construct the chassis components in step 2 with it
left off. The flex in the chassis legs will accommodate it once the
chassis frame is built up so let the assembly fully cure first. It is
also recommended NOT to add the photo etch and plastic cab levers (parts
D13, D38 and D54) until it is ready to receive the cab floor as they
are easily damaged.
The front leaf spring assembly connect the two chassis legs at the front and the flat rear tray (part WA15) connects them together at the rear. Part A41 shown in step 3 can be used in-between to aid alignment. The gearbox fits in-between, and it must sit perpendicular to the frame. It’s connection points to both chassis’ legs rely on just the tiny and imprecise ends of part A7. The weight of the gearbox tends to make it droop rearwards making both chassis legs in the middle bend inwards at the top! Not the best engineering as the gearbox needs to align in one direction to accept both winch and engine shaft in later steps! The only reference for lining up the gearbox straight is to sight it up using the two holes in the legs behind the sprocket housings. TBH the upper middle parts of both legs have way too much flex and don’t get any rigidity until the fuel tank in step 7 is attached. There’s plenty of manhandling beforehand so handle with care!
Step 3 connects the myriad of parts that connects the suspension pick up points. Plenty of clean-up is needed especially on parts D23 and D24 so dry fitting everything before committing placement is recommended. There are also two small pieces of photoetch to add in this step and they need to be assembled correctly as the holes in them accept the winch housing.
Progress to step 3 so far.
Starting where we left off, step 4 builds up the engine. This is a nice rendition of the HL62/64TUK and apart from one area that needs work to ensure it fits in the chassis, only requires a few extras to produce an authentic looking lump. It can be super detailed with photo-etch sets should you wish. The area that can cause frustration when adding it to the chassis concern’s part E19. This fits into the transmission bellhousing part E36. Unfortunately, it is a little thick and although it fits inside part E36 it does NOT sit flush. What this means is that by attaching the bellhousing assembly to the back of the engine without sanding it flush, will extend the whole engine assemblies’ length slightly and it will no longer fit on the four chassis engine mounts. As both the front mounts are separate parts it is easy to damage them whilst trying to get the engine to fit. This issue has been on all the HL62TUK engines that I have built up by Trumpeter and is an easy fix if you know in advance.
I will not be leaving any engine side panels off so I have just built up the basic engine as the sump is still visible on the finished model.
Step 5 adds all matter of additional chassis components and as mentioned above the two front engine mounts are separate parts. Make sure these are added well before you pop the engine on them as they are easily distorted if not fully cured. Another tip in this step is to build up the fuel tank (parts A10, A11, A42 and D59) from Step 7 BEFORE adding its chassis attachment brackets (parts D41, D42, D43 & D44) This will allow you to use it as a spacing template to ensure the tank fits inside the bracket top cut-out slots. A word of warning regarding the shackle pin parts B37. The instructions have you orientate them rearward and although they will clip into the chassis leg holes without glue, I suspect many builders will simply glue them in place. On this variant the middle cargo bed frame brackets attaches onto the chassis legs just rearward of the shackle pin locating holes, so they need to be orientated forward.
Soft stringy material is offered in the kit to replicate the winch cable. It is not ideal and too easily frays. A lengthy of suitably sized copper cable is a much better substitute. I won’t be adding any cabling to my winch, and I have also left off the securing bars and rods (part PE-WA17)
The rear chassis panel in step 6 has many components, even the tiny external cable roller is unnecessarily engineered in two parts! The tow bar part A39 had huge mould offset in my kit and required a fair bit of work to look decent. Although not fitted yet in the pic below Part PE-WA19 can be seen fully installed in the final ‘Install shown’ image in step 6.
Moving on to step 7 the winch assembly is added and this is where any incorrect spacing of the two photo-etch pieces (PE-WA5 & WA6) from step 3 will rear its ugly head. They are however easily accessible if they do need re-positioning. You are instructed to add all four-leaf springs in this step. The recessed holes in the chassis for the rearmost springs B18 will likely require deepening a little with a drill. IMO, they don’t locate securely enough without doing this. Also, it is advisable to move straight on to step 8 before the leaf spring to chassis connections cures. This is because all the axle location brackets (Parts A3, A4 & the B35 x 2) connect to the ends of the leaf springs. Whilst the leaf springs are still pliable you can line them all up neatly. Lastly, part A22 is asking to be damaged if attached in this step. It can be safely added just before the bodywork goes on in step 17.
The instructions have you inserting the engine in this step too. It can be added at any time before the bulkhead is attached in step 18 so can be painted seperately. It will not however fit once both bulkhead and radiator housing are attached.
Another tip in step 8 is to leave the idler axle mounting points (parts
A17, A18, A19 & A20) un-glued until you are ready to position the
tracks. This way you will be in control of the final track fitment. This
will prevent an overly tight or loose fit of the tracks and give the
opportunity of getting the perfect ‘sag’ you want. In fact, as the idler
wheel to idler mount has such a shallow and weak connection, I found it
best attaching these two parts together well before any tension might
weaken the joint from fitting the tracks. You can always drill and pin
them together for an even stronger bond.
Progress so far. Fuel tank and engine both test fitted so as to leave
the chassis open to aid airbrushed paint getting into all the nooks and
crannies.
Step 9 has you build up the steering box, shaft, and wheel. The
instructions have you attach the wheel to the shaft and then the shaft
to the chassis. I would NOT recommend attaching it to the chassis just
yet. You are still to add wheels and tracks, turn it upside down to add
the exhaust etc before then, so it is asking for trouble to add it in
this step. This part attachment is also relevant depending on whether
you prefer to add the bodywork to the chassis before or after painting.
The instructions have you add the bodywork in step 17 so if you go down
this route, add both in step 18 before the firewall (part WD12) goes in.
If you want to keep both chassis and bodywork separate, then keep both
shaft and steering wheel loose until you do finally add the bodywork to
the chassis.
Steering shaft and wheel alongside the idler axle assemblies
The track wheel suspension arms (parts B29) do not need to be glued in to the chassis. They are a smooth friction fit even after ridding them of mould seams and give the bonus of articulating all the wheels if you wish. They most definitely won’t fall out so no real need to glue unless you must.
The front axle and steering are constructed in step 10 and here you are
instructed not to cement the hubs to the axle beam. Having the wheels
free to steer is a nice option. However, not all the steering linkages
rotate unless you pin them. To have a ‘working system’ requires a whole
bunch of extra work. Unlike many other kits you do at least get the
option to position them in a turned position. Take note though. If you
do decide to turn them, this impacts the layout of other steering
linkages in step 11.
The process of fitting the ‘moveable’ hubs is a little tricky as in
effect you must line up the holes in both part D19, D20 and B45 before
dropping the pin (B33) in to secure. The tolerances are way too tight so
to avoid snapping the pin whilst inserting I would recommend opening
the holes in all four parts with a micro drill and making sure the shaft
of the pin (B33) is sanded smooth.
Unfortunately, once built up the hubs are still extremely ‘wobbly’! If left this way, both wheels will ‘splay out’ unnaturally under the weight of the model. There are two ways of correcting this. The first is to simply glue parts D17, D20 and B45 in place once you are happy with the wheel direction, or a thin plastic card shim can be added and drilled to parts B45.
As for the steering linkages there is a diagram in step 11 to show how the steering box linkages attach to both the steering box and the steering rod connecting the driver’s side hub knuckle. This below kit instruction drawing depicts the wheels in the straight-ahead position. If you turn the wheels this obviously effects the layout. Confusingly, the construction stage drawing is drawn upside down!
I opted to assemble the steering as per step 10 using the ‘old school' method of ‘squishing’ down the tops of the pins on each side of the tie bar (D8) with a heated blade. I could then turn both wheels together before gluing them in position. The steering linkage rod connection to the driver’s side hub knuckle is a strange one. The instructions in step 10 and the diagram in step 11 both show it as attached from below, but it interferes with the tie bar this way!
Looking at the Panzer Tracts drawings below it shows that it is attached from above.
My wheels are turned to full lock and the linkages adjusted to suit.
The steering link rod is now attached to the hub knuckle from above.
Step 12 has you connecting the roadwheel pairs. This includes the two
idlers. Fit on mine was not the best due to oversized internal locating
tabs. They kept forcing the pairs apart. The tubular connection points
do align straight so it is simpler to cut the tabs down or remove them
all together. I then glued my idler wheels to their stub axles which I
built up in step 8. These are engineered to slot into the back of the
rearmost suspension arm plates and will be adjusted in or out to
optimise the track sag.
Depending on how you like to construct and paint the wheels will
determine how you plan out adding them in step 13. I like to paint my
wheels separately, but the interlocking system of wheels makes this
process a bit more involved. Leaving the inner and outermost wheels
separate is usually the easiest option.
The sprocket housings locate onto the chassis and part B40 on them
locates into the gearbox pins behind the hole we lined the gearbox up
with earlier.
Taking a break from the tedious task of cleaning up wheels I skipped to step 16 and looked at how I could rework the incorrect seat layout in the cab. Trumpeter have opted to add a single bench instead of a separated driver’s seat and added an angled cut-out on the passenger side. The back rest moulding (part WA3) is also two evenly spaced cushions. Looking at Hilary Doyle’s scale drawings in Panzer Tracts No 22-4 both the bench and back cushions are two different sized seats. The driver’s side is smaller, and the back cushion is also a lot thicker. In addition, the drawings show a single enclosed battery box sat against the side panel on the driver’s side and not two exposed batteries side by side like the kit has!
You can clearly see the height difference in the metalwork to accommodate the thicker drivers cushion in these resto vehicles. Nice ref images of battery box and the fuel tank too.
Modifying the bench seat
Using the existing back cushion moulding I cut a portion off one side and re-attached it to the other. Using the PT drawings as a guide, I split the one-piece bench into two and filled in the cut-out section. As for the metalwork underneath, to cover the angled cut out I utilised part WB3 to extend the front panel, filled the void and used plastic card to replace the lip and panel top. To simulate a thicker drivers cushion I will need to add a lower thin horizontal lip out of plastic card under the driver’s seat area and then fill into the original seat with putty.
And with the battery box
As we have now started on the external bodywork I thought it may be worthwhile at this point to mention the various modifications that occurred during its short production run. Most changes were features that were dropped due to the materials savings plan. At this point you can delete, add, change or modify certain parts to show a vehicle from a certain period.
Modifications and updates to the mittlerer Zugkraftwagen 8T (Sd.Kfz.7) Holzpritsche during its production run
The first wooden cargo bodies (Holzpritsche) built on the m11 design
were installed by the manufacturer Saurer as early as November 1943.
These were first attached to the 1943 Typ HL m11 which retained the
old-style metal driver’s compartment. At about the same time the
assembly firm emblems were dropped from the radiator housing, as were
the turn signals, side light and brake light. The headlights were also
reduced in size and a pair of steel pins were welded to the front of the
frame either side of the towing point to allow mounting of an external
starter. The track guards were also reduced in depth.
Early cab with a reduced depth track guard and large headlights
In 1944 the driver’s compartment was re-designed into the final, larger but simplified wooden cab version with a new instrument panel and angled track guards. The open glass panel in the windscreen was dropped and at least three variations in the design of the wooden side panels of the driver’s compartment existed. These being a rounded front, a second with a short straight bevel and a third with a long bevel. Krauss-Maffei were unable to start there Holtzpritsche production until Feb 1944 of which, by then, they would have likely been constructed on the new cab layout.
Other modifications that are not so visibly obvious included the
discontinuation of the inertia starter in 1944, The guide to access this
and the cover plate were eliminated from the right front mudguard in
early 1944. The final lightweight track plates were also introduced
later that year.
The only changes to the cargo body were that the rifle racks were
mounted to the equipment rack rather than to the floor. This meant that
the Holzpritsche could be converted to a flatbed cargo vehicle simply by
removing both the seat and equipment rack.
Factory fresh. This has the large headlights, rounded cab panel profile
and steel pins for an external starter. There is no assembly firm
emblem visible on the radiator housing. This is one of the vehicles I
believe Trumpeter used in their kit research as they provide these
licence plates as decals and one I will be using as inspiration for the build.
The first incarnation of the Holzpritsche I am planning to build at the end of this blog utilised the final m11 design with the shallow track guards, No kit manufacturer in 1/35 scale currently offers this version neither do either of an existing kit with a floor moulding with the shallow track guards present. Dragon did release a version in 2014 which they labelled a ‘Typ HL M11 1943 production’ in kit #6794 which had reduced depth track guards on the box art. Unfortunately, the kit only provided existing body floor mouldings with the original deeper type of track guard. They then expected the modeller to reduce them in size by slicing them along their full length. This without any template or guide marks! I have built this kit and it was a challenge to reduce their depth without butchering a major component in the kit. To represent the Holzpritche version the guards will also have to be reduced in length.
Final m11 metal cab with Holzpritsche load area.
This Trumpeter kit only provides the larger headlights and has the
access cover plate for the inertia starter on the right front mudguard.
Both are easy to deal with if you wish to show a later build. Kubelwagen
sized headlights being a good replacement. The kit does not provide the
steel pins for the external starter either side of the front towing
point so you might wish to add these. There is no driver's sun visor on
the windscreen in the box either!
As already mentioned in step 16, the cab seat bench metalwork, and the
seat cushion size and layout are incorrect. If it is important to you,
these will need to be modified. The assembly firm emblem on the radiator
housing is easy enough to remove should you wish. The three prominent
rivets at the bottom of each fender should not have a bolt head on each.
These look like a restoration anomaly so simply remove the bolt detail.
As for the cargo bed, there are a few errors and omissions here too.
The PT drawings and period images show a cut out at the top of the rear
tailgate. This was to accommodate items being towed with the tailgate
lowered and the kit part does not include this. It doesn't provide the
steps on the interior of the same part either! Both these should be easy
enough to correct. Later models had the rifle racks located onto the
equipment rack. Trumpeter have a strange photo etch frame (part) PE-WB15
attached to the top clasps which are not shown in either PT drawings or
period images. The lower rifle butt locating rings are moulded to the
floor on the kit. Later variants moved these to the equipment rack. As
far as I can make out, they look to have been re-located to the top of
the bottom plank.
Deleted firm emblem on the radiator housing, pins for the external
starter, small headlights, windscreen sun visor, and the tailgate cut
out and steps can all be seen in these drawings. It also shows the
lightweight track design introduced at the end of 1944.
The equipment rack was attached the cargo floor by locating bars which
fitted into sockets in the floor. They were, as the seat was, locked in
place by blocks attached to the inside of the folding sides. The kit
does not provide either of these. The bars would not be visible if
fitted but the blocks would be. Again, a simple process to scratch from
plastic card. Likewise, the sockets in the floor are not shown on the
kit part and would be visible if you built a flatbed cargo version.
Strangely the cargo seats in the kit are engineered to sit opposite
each other where in fact the bench sat across the width of the whole bed
with seats facing back-to-back. As the bench extended height sides are
attached to and visible on each folding side, I’m pretty sure this is
where Trumpeter researchers misinterpreted these as the actual seat
backs and provided the two benches positioned each side. Who knows?
The actual bench sits across the bed (inside the red rectangle)
Lastly, the kit's instructions have you place the spare wheel (without
any means of securing it) on the flat panel at the rear of the chassis
when it should sit in the tools compartment in front of the equipment
rack.
Scale drawings of both the equipment rack and cargo seat layout can be
found in Panzer Tracts No 22-4 if you wish to scratch build them.
The Crompton collection 8T. You can see the rear bench seat layout clearly.
Nice pic of the cab instrument panel layout.
I’m not a big fan of repetitive work so I like to spread the task of
wheel and track clean up over a few sessions, so this work continues at a
glacial pace.
Meanwhile let us look at the kit’s sprockets. As already mentioned, it
has two big issues. The main one is simple to remedy, if not a little
time consuming. Trumpeter have not offset the rollers so when you attach
the tracks to the sprocket, they don’t sit flat against the track pads.
The well published fix can be found here: https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/trumpeter/tr01523d04.htm
The second is that the kit sprockets have bevelled grooves on the face.
Similar marks can be seen on the face in this resto vehicle pic but
they are not grooved. These marks/grooves don’t show in the Panzer
Tracts book or appear in any reference images.
I am sure there will be some 3D printed 1/35 Sd.Kfz 7 sprocket files out there somewhere. If you are lucky enough to own or know somebody with a 3D printer, then if they are made specifically to fit the Trumpeter kits that really is the way to go. At present I am still searching so I might yet have to fix the kit parts!
The kit front wheels are offered as rubber tyres with plastic hubs. I’m
not a big fan of rubber tyres on kits. I know they are mini replicas of
the real thing and although the kit ones are OK and the pattern usable,
they just don’t take weathering products well. They also exhibit an
unnatural shine that would need toning down in this scale. My option is
to use Quick Wheel resin wheels. Whilst their wheel spokes are a little
‘off’ in terms of shape, the overall size and wheel tread pattern is
authentic. I’m not sure these are as that easily available in the UK as
they once were. There are, however, many other manufacturers of these
wheels in 1/35 nowadays. They include Def Model, Panzerart and ET Model
to name a few.
The tracks are a three-piece affair. Nice if you want to model a
burnt-out vehicle as the pads are a separate part but again another case
of too many tiny parts when a track and track plate could have been
combined. Apart from the tedious clean-up they look good and link
together well. Use a thicker glue in construction to avoid sticking
links together and you have a nice strong set of articulating tracks.
So, with work on steps 13 to 15 still ongoing let’s come back to these and move on to the bodybuilding steps
I have reworked both the seat layout and the battery box. All the cab
parts fit together precisely but it is worth test fitting the spacing of
parts WA1 & WA2 on the chassis legs before the glue completely
cures. Both these parts line up on top of each chassis leg without any
fore or aft alignment marks. Placement on the chassis legs is dictated
once attached to the front fender sub-assembly.
Step 17 instructs the fit of both the front fender body moulding part
(WA4) and the cab assembly to the chassis. I have an alternative to this
build sequence which I will explain shortly but if you follow the step
sequence this is also where the steering wheel shaft must be added if
kept separate until now. Both assemblies effectively ‘trap’ it in place.
Test fit the fender moulding on the chassis first as it will confirm
the spacing of both assemblies. it has a precise fit by way of a groove
in the chassis legs and will sit back precisely within slots against the
front of the two legs. The cab assembly floor braces at the rear just
sit up against the rear fuel tank brackets and don’t sit on the chassis
legs.
As for my alternative build sequence, having built a few of these I now
find it much easier to build the bodywork into sub-assemblies off the
chassis until I get some paint on. If you do follow the instruction
steps at this stage, it makes airbrush painting areas below the two
assemblies difficult to cover. To aid painting the cab interior and
adding instrument decals I prefer to keep the front fender moulding,
bulkhead, and engine panels as one sub-assembly and the cab floor
assembly as another.
To build it up like this you must first attach the steering wheel shaft to the bulkhead assembly. It is connected by way of photo-etch bracing to the inside of the bulkhead and attaching it to the bracing must be added before adding the instrument panel. The only fiddly aspect to this method of construction is to hope the bottom of the shaft then aligns with the steering box curved cut out in the chassis leg! This is far more important if you are omitting the engine side panels and displaying the engine. If not, as I intend, there is a simple ‘fix’. Simply snip the bottom of the shaft off above the steering box and attach it onto the chassis leg. This way you can still attach all the steering linkages.
This alternative method of construction keeps all the engine, radiator housing and bulhead panels nice and tight. Assembling it in this manner means you can also add a painted engine to a painted chassis before adding the painted bodywork and be sure everything lines up well.
Continuing where we left off in step 17, we also have the exhaust pipe fitment which comes in two parts. They thread through the various holes and apertures in the frame. Fortunately, the join is engineered to hide inside the exhaust box. I would recommend adding the rear section first to get the correct spacing. Although not pointed out in the instructions, there is a small hole in the pipe just behind the box and this aligns with a pip on the horizontal tube underneath the winch.
The front section fits up through a hole in the front fender moulding and attaches to the manifold. It is a tight fit next to all the steering linkages. In my alternative method of construction it is far easier to add the front section of the pipe after the front fender assembly is added to the chassis. No problem if the engine bay is closed as you can further aid fitment by snipping the angled manifold end off. This is far more challenging if the engine is visible as you must successfully wiggle it into position and align it to the manifold.
Front pipework route.
Step 18 is where you attach the engine bulkhead to the cab assembly. As
already mentioned in an earlier post I’m not a fan of this assembly
sequence so devised my own method of construction between the main body
sub-assemblies in steps 17 through 19
If the instructions are followed to the letter in these stages, it is
all too easy to misalign panels. Adding the bulkhead to the cab floor
effectively ‘traps’ the steering shaft. The final placement of the
bulkhead determines the position of the cab front panel (part WD18 in
step 19), which in turn determines the spacing of the bonnet/hood and
engine side panels against the radiator housing. The lower interior side
triangular reinforcing brace mouldings are quite crude and can mess up a
good connection if they are not in exactly the right position on the
bulkhead. Whichever way you decide to proceed from step 17 it is still
most definitely worth cleaning up all the engine panel parts shown in
step 21 and test fitting them for optimum fit.
Step 18 and 19 is where you begin to add all the photo-etch steps. These can be added as per the instructions to the fender moulding part. Test fit both sub-assemblies are mated as the turned-up edges of the PE steps can prevent a flush fit.
If you have at this point kept the engine separate for painting, bear in mind that it will not fit in the bay once both the bulkhead (part WD12) and radiator housing (A27) are added.
Also in step 19, we add all manner of cab and engine parts. The front
cab panel with the instrument panel is also added. Trumpeter have
bestowed us with a full complement of instrument dial decals but the
positioning is at odds with period images and resto vehicle pics.
Step 20 just adds the front fender lower reinforcing braces which are
provided on the photo-etch fret. They are not a great fit and have to be
manipulated to fit well. Again, ref pics will help in this area. Step
21 builds up the radiator, engine sides and bonnet/hood which all align
snugly together. Whilst test fitting the engine panels to the front
fender moulding it is worth noting Trumpeter have included angled
witness marks to place the armoured panel which protects the engine on
all the Flak variants. This should be removed on the cargo version
Steps 22 and 23 finish off the cab and adds all the small accessories like lights, width indicators and tools. Trumpeter have provided a thin clear plastic screen to sit in the windscreen frame so is easily added after paint. The whole screen will hinge with care, but it is only by way of photo-etch hinges so won’t stand up to continuous movement.
Building the load bed Steps 24 to 28
Whilst I’m still deflecting from finishing the tracks, I started
pulling the cargo bed parts of the sprues and remembered how exaggerated
the woodgrain is. As mentioned in the introduction a much larger issue is that this kit does not have
the equipment rack included. It has some strange planking dividers
instead. If you want to show a rack you will have to scratch build one
or use the Dragon kit part. The second problem is with the number of horizontal planks an both front, tailgate and side panels. Period images all show five whereas the kit has moulded on four!
You have two options to display the cargo area. One is open with just
the frame, and one is to use the provided tilt canvas cover. There is
also a cover for the cab.
You can hide the fact that no equipment rack is present by simply adding the included tilt canvas moulding. The moulding of the canvas doesn’t look particularly exciting in bare plastic, and it is way too uniform and straight at the bottom edge. Unfortunately, the tilt framework is moulded inside the canvas, so you do not have the option to add it over the open built framework.
All the wooden panels are free from sink marks on both sides which is a commendable achievement and the floor panel part WC23 is almost free from any, apart from some shallow ones which are almost hidden under the support framework. No bolt detail is added on the underside as it should be. The two main chassis rails benefit from reducing the size of their locating nubs to accomodate the bed framework as they won’t sit flush in the recesses otherwise. The panels that make up the sides all fit together well although, just like the frame rails, it is worth reducing the size of their locating nubs to get a nice flush fit on the bed.
The instruction step 31 has you snip off the tops of all the upper
hinge plates if you are fitting the tilt. This is a simplified answer
and TBH
the canvas would bulge over them. With the bottom edge all-round the
tilt being too straight and uniform it would benefit from some extra
work. Although it will be barely visible on my build, I added the cut out in the tailgate panel along with two interior reinforcing
strips as you see these in period images. This was to allow the tailgate to be dropped whilst towing.
If you are not at all bothered about the kit’s inaccuracies in the load bed area and follow the build steps, it does all build up nicely. The inclusion of photo-etch for the underside reinforcing bars, clasps, number place and locking bar detail being particularly nice touches.
There should be tailgate stop brackets at both ends of the chassis legs but for some reason the kit only provides the one photo-etch piece!
It very much looks like Trumpeter provides the same chassis leg mouldings for all their Sd.Kf 7 8t kits with all locating tabs moulded in to accommodate all of them. What this means with this kit is that only the front and rear locating tabs are utilised. The rear tabs fit well but the front ones need almost entirely removing to make the bed frame brackets slot into them! TBH removing the front tabs altogether is advised as the framework bracket detail ‘wraps’ around the chassis rails to align anyway.
The bottom arrow points towards the location tabs positioned along the chassis legs and the white arrow is the minimum size I had to reduce the front tabs to accept the front chassis frame brackets.
To make things even more frustrating the cargo bed on this variant connects to the chassis with a third middle bracket. This happens to sit just behind the shackle pin location point and in exactly the spot where the instruction diagram illustrates you orientate the shackles! These can rotate fore or aft on the location hole in the chassis but, many would have already committed the glue. Add your own expletive!
Test fit progress so far.
Wheels,tracks and tarp
All the wheels have been cleaned up and the tracks built. Wheels look
good and thankfully each only have two connection points on the sprue.
As for the sprockets, whilst I wait for the possibility of a 3D printed
set, I figured I would apply the ‘fix’ and see what I could do with the
kit ones anyway. I’ve never bothered sticking all the cut off tabs back
in, there never going to fit properly and TBH
you can hardly see the difference when built up. There is also the
missing pad, plate and bolts detail on the insides anyway. As for the
groves on the face, I am applying multiple coats of diluted Tamiya putty
with a brush to try and hide them. Three coats in and I can still see them,
so I still have a way to go!
Step ring and facia plate still to be added once the grooves vanish.
As mentioned in the modification section, both sprockets need to build
up differently. That is, the rollers are handed and you shouldin effect have a left and
right sprocket as per the letters L & R denotation on the real thing. When you apply the fix and glue the roller ring part
back to the main moulding, use a small track run to orientate the track
direction and test them on the sprocket to work out the spacing of the
rollers to get each link to sit flat on the tyre flats. Once happy each
link sits flush, the sprocket parts can be glued back in place.
54 links are confirmed per side in the PT book and the kit calls out
the same. The tracks come in three parts, the link, track plate and pad
and all are sprue bound and need to be cleaned up.
The links clean up easily but even after careful sanding the pad and plate can still look a bit ‘messy’ on one side. I glued all the pads to the plates with the ‘cleaned up’ side in the same direction. That way once you work out your track direction you can glue them all to the links on each run and have all the nice, unmolested sides visible.
One side test fitted. I managed to attach one pad and plate in the wrong direction. Can you spot it?
The turn signal detail has now been removed off the cab side panels.
They were omitted from 1943 onwards on the earlier metal cab and I don’t
recall seeing any period images with them fitted to any Holzpritsche variants other then restoration vehicles. I also added some
additional interior detail to the back of the cab’s tilt cover. It was basically
flat with no window flap detail on the inner face. I used some VMS paper
and paper shaper to bling things up a bit.
There are restored vehicles with them added.
Although it wasn’t required on my build, I found that the windscreen frame would not fold down flat on the bonnet. This was due to the connection of photo etch parts that connect the screen to the body. Oddly it would fold backwards into the cab but not forwards! The photo-etch pizza slice shaped parts are orientated in the correct way, so I am still puzzled!
I am now starting to think about a colour scheme. I have never seen a
period colour image of one of these late war vehicles. I imagine most
would have left the factory in plain Dunkelgelb. There are some period
images of this vehicle with the blotch type of camo pattern and then
there is the ubiquitous spaghetti type. Not sure either could be
labelled schemes though as they were applied in field? Although the elaborate large, banded tri-tonal
scheme on the restoration vehicles looks way too 'nice' it's something I might consider. At the very least I
will probably copy the factory fresh monochrome coloured vehicle that
the kit decals depict.
Blotchy tri-tone camo on abandoned 8t and a bogged down vehicle in plain Dunkelgelb
The build is 99% complete so it’s time for some paint.
The small fragile gear controls will be added during the cab painting and many of the front fender moulding accessories like the Notek light, the clear headlights, and width indicators will all be added once the two cab sub-assemblies have been attached.
Before I mixed up some paint I wanted to try and improve the look of
the cargo tarp. The kit part is a little short and should overlap the
sides more. It is also missing some detail. Using the PT book images as
reference, VMS paper has been cut into the various shapes that make up
the tilt canvas and attached over the kit's main moulding with VMS paper
shaper liquid gluing it all together.
Work improving the tilt cover has finished. Front wheels are the Quick Wheel resin items. Outer roadwheels not yet attached.
I have finally decided to display the vehicle shown on the cover of the Panzer Tracts cover but probably not quite so factory fresh. No tools are present on the bonnet/hood and is shown in plain Dunkelgelb paint. A little more prep work is required with builds requiring interior painting so my plan is to split the painting steps up. I will first rattle can prime, then with the airbrush, shadow coat, base coat, and add a little colour modulation. A little gloss/satin varnish coat will be laid down before adding the cab instrument decals and then again to seal them. The tracks, tyres, engine, and exhaust will also receive coats whilst the airbrush is out. The cab and tilt covers will also be painted separately.
My choice of paint for this build will be MRP lacquers. They offer some nice WWII German tri-tonal camo colours with no less than three Dunkelgelb options. They require no thinning and spray beautifully smooth. Once dry I will decide whether a satin varnish coat is required to aid a pin wash application and further light weathering.
After all the sub-assemblies received a coat of Hobby colour grey
primer, MRP lacquers were mixed to create some different shadow coats.
Having done this a couple of time before and with a little patience, laying
down subsequent lighter base coats layers can yield some subtle colour
modulation. There is no need to thin MRP paints so you can spray really
close with the pressure turned down. Getting a decent
opacity does take time in building up but it sprays on lovely
and smooth. In the case of this chassis, I was able to get a controlled
application of paint in the multitude of nooks and crannies.
I started with a Dark Yellow and Red Brown mix. Then to save time by
not cleaning the airbrush between colours, I played around with the mix
ratios, finally adding a little black and eventually some white, ending
with a grey tone to paint the engine, gearbox, exhaust and add some
additional shadows.
The chassis in a fetching caramel hue!
The cab assemblies in a weird sort of Mahogany colour!
The wooden cargo bed in a delicious chocolate brown!
The tilt cover received a disrupted coat of various shades of grey.
Only the sump of the engine will be visible so that received a coat of dark grey too.
First Dunkelgelb base coat with MRP-037 lacquer followed by a lighter coat mix of MRP-037 and MRP-004. A further lightened coat with a drop more MRP-004 will be misted over just the uppermost areas.
Airbrush work almost complete on the Dunkelgelb base coat. A liitle
more work to up the highlights and shadows in a few prominent areas is
still required.
Steering wheel, front tyres and track link pads were airbrushed with Tamiya
tyre black . Track link pads were then protected with a couple of coats
of hairspray before the whole track runs received an airbrushed mix of
Tamiya Dark Iron, German Grey and Flat Earth. The pads will be dampened
with water, agitated with a brush and the tyre black colour exposed in a
later step.
Next up is to brush paint all the track wheel tyres and cab seat and then it's on to adding the instrument and licence plate decals.
Dry fit for update pics has it's first casualty. The Notek light
Probably best left off until the cab assemblies are together on the chassis now.
I managed a few little sessions over the last few days.
First one I got the decals added, not that there are many! Just licence
plates and instrument dials. Satin varnished before and after. All
the track wheels tyres were brush painted with Vallejo Dark Rubber acrylics.
Then to test whether a satin varnish would be required to aid a good
pinwash application, a diluted mix of Wash Brown Abtielung oils and
their own Odourless turps was added to the fuel tank. As the MRP paint
had dried silky and smooth capillary action worked perfectly.
All the sub-assemblies and various parts then received the same. When
nearly dry the oil wash was blended into the paintwork in places. A few
more lighter and darker effets will be added with enamels once the oil
wash has completey dried. The cab seat colour was blocked in first with
Vallejo gloss black and then with a first application of black oils. A
few further highlights will be added once the oil coat has dried up a
little to aid blending. Next, everything will receive a matt varnish
coat to seal everything for the upcoming weathering stages.
Oils still wet and some clean-up still required in many of the below pics.
All the pin wash steps were completed and all the sub-assemblies were sealed with Vallejo matt varnish.
After the first oil pin wash had dried additional light applications of
dust and dirt effect enamels were added to areas where they would
naturally accumulate. A final mix of various coloured oils mixed with
white spirit (for faster drying) were added to specific areas to add
some variation and contrast. A case in point being the radiator housing
where a darker wash was required. A future dry brushing of the
highlighted base colour colour over the grill will sharpen up the detail
even more.
The heaviest areas of wash was deliberately added to the wheels. These
lower areas are still to receive an airbrushed coat of dust colours so
adding more contrast now should still make the details stand out. The
track pads were agitated with water to remove any track coloured paint I
had airbrushed earlier over the hairspray. Both track runs were then
given a very light wash of dust and dirt effect enamels.
Connecting back all the finished sub-assemblies, wheels and tracks in the next step is one I really look forward to. First I will need to add the engine and fuel tank, then connect the steering wheel and windscreen so both cab assemblies can be connected snugly together before they are fitted to the chassis.
I gave up on filling the sprocket's bevelled groves. No matter how many coats of diluted Tamiya putty I ran round the face they just kept sinking back in! The hub caps have yet to be added although I might leave one/both off still as they will hide all those lovely bolt heads. The photo etch step ring connection point will have to be hidden at the bottom when attaching the sprockets to the chassis.
As I never followed the crazy Trumpy instruction step of adding the
levers to the gearbox, they will be added after the cab has been
connected to the chassis. I have managed this process successfully in a
previous build and the only additional requirement is to snip off the
locating nub on the lever that connects into the side of the gearbox. It
will then just slot through the cab floor apertures as the other two
levers will. Hopefully these two will locate in the two holes in the top
of the gearbox but it is not a big issue if they don't as the
connection point is not visible. As long as the correct height of all
the levers is maintained all will be well.
Before closing the cab, the floor was weathered with various enamel dust colours and the tread plate dry brushed with some dark oils to simulate some light wear. The steering wheel was then added before both sub-assemblies were finally fixed together.
Before I started, the headlight lenses were added along with the Notek light and bracket that I knocked off earlier. The same speckling mixes were now added to the exterior. Any overscale spec are easily tidied up with a brush dampened with white spirit and some specs were deliberately dragged down to create fine streaks. Once dry this was followed by an application of the lightest coloured dust. This was built up in layers made up of heavily diluted (in white spirit) buff oil. The tyres received some dry earth toned pigments which were applied dry and 'stabbed' in with a soft stubby brush. A quick run over both tyres faces with a finger completed their appearance.
Once dry this first step will be checked, areas cleaned up, then it's on to the next layer.
Using a pallete of Abteilung Buff, Light Mud, Basic Earth, Wash Brown and Black oils I continued adding dust, stains and grime. Blending each colour in with an almost dry brush until I felt the effects looked as scale realistic as I could.
The delicate and fragile width indicators and windscreen folding handles still need to be fitted. They have already been painted, but seem to have gone walkabout for now! I'm sure they will turn up.
I have enjoyed this build and although these Trumpeter kits are
extremely frustrating to construct in places I'm happy with how this one
has turned out. The final pictures will be created under their own heading.
For the next variant build see Part 2
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