And so, at last, after more than thirteen years of neglect, may I present the finished article. I hope you like it.
‘der Grashüpfer‘
And so, at last, after more than thirteen years of neglect, may I present the finished article. I hope you like it.
‘der Grashüpfer‘
Oil paints were used again to accentuate areas at the rear of the vehicle over existing acrylic dust layers. This was done by adding both oil paints and pigments. Once dry, areas around the handles and steps had the dust layers smudged and dirty deposits were also added onto high wear surfaces.
The next stage of weathering effects is one I have used on a couple of
projects to date, and the results can look convincing. Looking at progress so
far, I decided to add a subtle toned-down application to just the lower front,
rear, and sides, and see where it would take me.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
These selectively applied and time consuming oil paint stages are not for everyone, but Mike Rinaldi’s work in his Tank Art books convinced me it was worth the effort. These effects look very convincing and very much appealed to me. The richness, depth, and versatility that working with oil paint brings is unparalleled in my opinion and has now become an important step in
most of my projects. In my pursuit for in-scale realism I will happily spend
days going back and forth adding tiny effects to try and compliment the overall
look, often spending hours on one particular feature. I love the results that
can be achieved and find the whole process enormously therapeutic.
With the vehicle fully built up it was time to put a personal stamp on the project. For this first stage of weathering here are the steps I followed:
After being kept apart for so long it was finally time to permanently fix both sub-assemblies together! The two mouldings are mated by way of small keyed joint connections. Following the build steps as per the instructions it's simple enough to turn the body upside down, align all the keyed connections and fix the chassis down onto the body. As already noted in Chapter 3 the connection is not at all precise and requires a little rework to achieve a clean flush fit between the two assemblies. The instructions have you mate the two parts early on in the build steps so handling the parts and sorting the issue is easy to resolve. It will be far more of a challenge if paint and fragile fixings are already added!
Before commencing the first weathering stages of the build, there were a few areas of the model that I still wasn’t 100% happy with. Firstly, the paint colour on the re-worked sprockets wasn’t a great match to the rest of the running gear. Although this was more likely due to my choice of primer colour than the actual base coat mix, they definately exhibited a more creamier tone as opposed to the greyish hue of the existing track wheels. Rather than masking and re-spraying paint I stumbled upon a solution. Applying Abteilung buff oil paint seemed to be the perfect answer. This was carefully stippled on and blended out from the wheel centre.
Left for 72hrs to cure I then sealed the oil paint work with VMS matt varnish. This was essential as both enamels and pigment effect work would still be required to harmonise with the existing chassis tones.
Regarding decals, what’s provided in the kit is not surprisingly extremely limited. In addition to the instrument dials only a pair of licence plates along with a 'prototype' plate are included. Interestingly Trumpeter don't match the ones found on the restored vehicle!
Both licence plates were added and sealed.
It’s difficult to ascertain a clear paint finish under all that rust and river debris, but it almost certainly would have originally received a dark yellow base coat. As to whether it had any traces of camo, I have not read of any evidence that it had. The Polish resto team never added any, which leads me to believe that it didn’t, but with just the one surviving vehicle it's always possible that others did.
Viewing the recovered vehicle images once more, a fair chunk of upper body armour plate has been replaced, and weld lines criss-cross the repaired sections. Some prominent welds, such as on the rear plate to the lower body may well be original so it is curious to note the absence of any significant weld lines at all on the kit. And whilst not all the welds may be original, I have decided to add my own in the most visible areas, like where the rear plate attaches to both side and lower plates. I have also re-scribed the panel lines as I felt they were too shallow.
Before
the upper and lower body sub-assemblies could be fixed permanently together, the
interior required a few parts to be painted and added. The largest items
being the kit supplied wooden benches. Along with the steering wheel these were
kept separate for painting. I had long since removed the kit fire extinguisher from
the driver’s side wall as it was pointed out to me that it was of an early
design. In its place now sits a 3D printed late style empty bracket. Two other
features that look peculiarly placed are the MG ammo box and its leather pouch. As
these were already fixed in the vehicle as per the instructions, and well bonded, they were left
to avoid damage. They have yet to be detail painted.
The sprockets and solid tyred wheel sets have now received paint. They still require a very light application of dust to match the tones used on the track wheels. Some work is still required with oils to replicate the leaking wheel bearing hubs as seen on the restored vehicle.
Larger faced kit sprockets ready for primer with large kit PE step ring, and some 0.7mm bolt heads added to replicate the track pads retaining bolts.
The reworked handed sprockets.
Left (Port sided) and right (starboard side) sprocket
Now I have had time to examine my twelve-year old build in detail there are some issues I see with the kit compared to the actual restored vehicle. There are three main areas that I felt needed addressing. One is making good an original build mishap, the second is a very prominent inaccuracy issue with the bodywork, and the third concerns the fitment of the body to the chassis. Then there will be some additional detail to add here and there.
Continuing on from Chapter 1 let's begin with a brief recap of this extremely rare vehicle.
The restored vehicle was recovered from the Pilica River in Poland. It is believed that only a handfull (period images show just three) of these were ever manufactured, making this surviving example pretty unique indeed! This armoured variant of the Sd.Kfz 8 was all but forgotten until it was recovered and then restored to running condition. Having a full lightly armoured hull around the chassis and drive train, it is believed that this was a prototype of an armoured artillery tractor.
Since commencing my build the below three period images are the only ones to be currently found online. The first one appears to show a vehicle fitted with pneumatic tyred front wheels and a four door rear panel.
Both the lower front panel shape and design, and the large upper panel overhang are very different on this example compared to what is offered in the Trumpeter kit.
Unlike the kit this vehicle has just two rear doors.
An introduction to modelling the Sd.Kfz.7 can be found here
The pics below were taken before the Trumpeter kit was painted so we can compare them side by side. The most striking difference is the height of the canvas tilt frame! The Trumpeter one looks far too low, and this seems to be confirmed in period images.
The next thing to notice is how soft the Trumpeter kit’s details look. The radiator housing fins being a prime example. The front fender profile difference is also clear to see here. The Dragon kit has the correct one. The Trumpeter model's running gear and front wheels also sit a little lower on the chassis.
Trumpeter kit #01507
This kit depicts the very last war time Sd.Kfz.7 variant that came with the wooden cab and body. This 2009 boxing was the second in what has now become one of nine Trumpeter releases based on this widely used vehicle. As with all their 8-ton kits they do have some accuracy issues and can be particularily challenging to build in places. The good news is, if you do put the effort in you are rewarded with a great looking model. Once you build a few of these kits, you begin to realise creating alternative construction steps makes for a much more pleasureable build, ultimately resulting in a much nicer end product.
The only aftermarket addition to my build is a Quick Wheel resin front wheel set. The headlamps have been replaced with the smaller 'final' style taken from another axis softskin. The overall look of the cargo tilt has been improved with VMS paper and shaper and integrated into the kit's tilt cover moulding. It was painted with MRP & Tamiya lacquers, Tamiya and Valleo acrylics, and with AK enamels, MIG pigments, and Abtielung oils
A step by step build log of this kit can be found here
With the
vehicle upright and sitting on its tracks and wheels it is now time to apply
some more general wear and tear! I was after the look of a vehicle that had
just entered service.
Before I
started, the headlamp lenses were added, along with the Notek light and bracket
that I managed to knock off earlier. Working methodically and slowly
around the exterior further weathering effects were added to add to the overall
appearance. These effects were built up in layers until I was satisfied it
would require no more.
I'm almost done with this project. A four-month build time is a fast one for me so I reckon I should really call this one my first completed build of 2023😃
The width indicators still need to be attached and blended in. They have already been painted but seem to have gone walkabout!
I have really enjoyed this build and although these Trumpeter 8-ton kits can be
quite a challenge and extremely frustrating to construct in places, I'm happy
with how this one has turned out.
To tone down the stark contrast of the dark pin wash and to start the process of adding dusty layers to the running gear, an overall harmonized covering of dust would be airbrushed over the chassis and running gear. Using the hairspray technique this initial layer could be toned down
To start things off it received a couple of coats of hairspray. A dusty coloured mix of buff and grey acrylics mixed with water was then airbrushed on. Once dry this dust coat was carefully agitated in specific places with an old brush. The process is almost like a dry brushing of the surface. It generally removes the dust coat from raised areas and leaves a nicely toned ground in dust effect in all the recess and around the tyres surfaces.
The tracks do need a little assistance to simulate the weight and sag down naturally. This will be taken care of before any completed project final photos.
To start off weathering the front wheels they also received the same initial dust layer and the hairspray allowed remnants to remain. Then, very light dried earth enamels were added with a paintbrush and blended out from the rims. This all looks a bit stark at this point, but it will be toned down by a further application of pigments.
With the chassis and running gear having now received a harmonised initial dust coat it was time to fix all the sub-assemblies in place. It is a great feeling to make it to the point where the painted build falls together.
With all the sub-assemblies connected a further application of lighter toned acrylic dust was applied in the same method as above. Various similar dust toned mixes of pigment and oil paints diluted in white spirit were then speckled on.