Small Island Scale Models: Sd.Kfz 171 Panther Ausf A

Kit:                                          Dragon 1/35 #6168/6244 Panther A
Tracks:                                    Masterclub MTL35001
Barrel:                 RB Model 35B06D
Photo Etch:                             Voyager PE35084
Cables:                                    Eureka XXL ER-3514
Damaged road wheel set:      ET Model ER35-036
Resin Zimmerit                       Atak 35021

This kit is the 2004 Normandy anniversary edition with the slightly odd colored photo instruction sheet. Review can be found at: http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/dragon/dr6168.htm

I was informed some of these initially released kits were offered with a metal barrel but unfortunately the two I purchased didn't! Both mine came with rubber tracks. A later addition of this kit (@6168MT) was released in 2017 with magic tracks.

The build was straight forward but the Zimmerit application was a bit challenging. My set was slightly vertically short on one hull side and also on one side of the turret. I used My Hobby's excellent but extremely pungent Mr Surfacer 1500 to fill any gaps. Once complete the Zimmeret was roughed up in places with an electric burr to show wear and tear and then the whole model was sprayed with Halfords (UK automotive brand) primer

Next step up was to check for any imperfection or errors to the build which would now show up more clearly under the primer. Again more work was needed to blend the damaged Zimmerit to the metalwork underneath as the Atak resin sheets are a little thick scale wise. Once I was happy I proceeded to lay down a red oxide coat over all the bare metal. This was completed in two light coats using Mission Models red oxide acrylic. The barrel received a dark grey Tamiya mix undercoat as they were covered in a grey heat resistant paint from the factory

Once this had dried I tested out a Zimmeret paste colour mix to check for contrast and also to see if the damaged areas looked realistic. A coat of hairspray before the base coat would assist in removing any over spray and could be touched up later

Certain areas were also treated to a dark grey coat to give some contrast to areas that would be chipped later on.

Two fine mist coats of Tresemme fine mist hairspray were then applied direct from the can. Both hatches that will be portrayed as open were buttoned up so as the primer coat would have a nice demarcation line once the base coat was down. Once the hairspray had dried I mixed up a Tamiya base coat of Dunkelgelb (Dark yellow, Flat white and flat yellow) thinned with water. I have always found a water mix works best in conjunction with the hairspray technique. Once this had dried a second light coat again thinned with water was applied consisting of Tamiya Dark yellow, Flat white and Deck tan. This was applied from above as a highlight coat to all upper areas. Once dry I set about chipping areas that would receive wear and tear and to the parts of the vehicle that I had represented as receiving damage

Working in small areas dampen the paint with a little tap water (don't let it pool) and leave for 30secs-1 minute to react with the hairspray. I have various old brushes and cocktail sticks that I use to create the chips depending what is required. I always use a soft scrubbing motion at first, just enough to agitate the hairspray and if the paint is difficult to remove at first (usually due the the base coat being a little thicker in places) persevere and it will start to lift. A little nick with a cocktail stick in places that are difficult to access with a brush is enough to start the process. A soft brush will take longer to remove the paint but will give more control than an old cut down stippled one so be careful not to wet the surface too much or scrub too hard as the danger is to lift too much paint. Less is definitely more. Taking pics as I go along lets me see how to best achieve a realistic scale appearance.

As much as I enjoy this process it is very easy to overdue so I was as subtle as possible and used ref pics to assist me represent the wear in places that are most likely to receive damage and would automatically get worn first

The sprocket below shows how this process can achieve realistic results and is a great first step to the many varied weathering techniques to follow.

A good session at the bench had both camo colours laid down. Tamiya acrylics mixed with water were employed. For the red brown a mix of XF64, XF60 and XF15 were used, and for the green, a mix of XF58 and XF60. The patterns were airbrushed on free hand with the help of a few photos and I went back and forth with each colour until I was happy with the pattern. A light coat of hairspray was used between colours.

Once dry, and with the hairspray to assist me, I lightly scrubbed over the patterns to reveal the coat underneath. Any camo on the ridges of the zimmerit instantly lightened and it had a similar effect to dry brushing each camo colour with a lighter shade and it really toned down the overall contrast. Due to the hairspray any over-spray to damaged areas of zimmerit were easily dealt with. The next stage I tidied up all these areas by adding a little red oxide to the centres and ensuring all the edges of damage were in the chalky buff colour.

A lightened shade of the original Dunkelgelb was applied by brush to raised areas and also to certain chipped areas creating a 3D effect to the scratches. The next session will involve painting the odd tool left on the tank, the tow cable, convoy light and the exhausts

Once the cables and exhausts were painted I turned my attention to the tracks. Once the Masterclub set was assembled they were given a soak in the last of my 'Blacken it' stash. I will have to turn to a few other makes from now on as I have not been able to locate any more. Once the tracks were burnished I set about weathering them with Enamels, oils and pigments. I didn't go overboard as the vehicle would be shown left abandoned.

My next mission was to knock up a base to show the kitty off. This is made up of a picture frame base with sides of plasticard and this was then filled with foam bricks. The surface was then covered with texture paste and left to dry overnight. Once dry a final textured layer of the same paste was added and a spare old panther was used to make an imprint of the tanks resting place between the weeds. A grass mat was then trimmed to fit the scene and added around the tanks imprint. A few strategically placed grass tufts were also added while the textured groundwork paste was still wet.

Once dry I set about adding more tufts and airbrushed the various groundwork mediums to homogenise the look. I used various earth colours for the paths and many shades of green for the grass and tufts. At this point the actual model was placed on the base to check again for any fit issues. I wanted the tank to look heavy and slightly sunk into the ground. Once I was happy I could now concentrate on weathering the tank to suit the groundworks. This included adding a few rusty elements and adding weathering streaks to the running gear.

The spare track links were now addressed and these were weathered with various rusty colours. I employed the speckling technique to these with various oils and pigments and added them to the turret and rear hangers.

The next step is to build and paint some Panther and other dumped AFV parts and place them around the tank. I have a name for the piece so its just a matter of getting a plaque made up and its all done and dusted