Now I have had time to examine my twelve-year old build in detail there are some issues with the kit vs the restored vehicle. There are two main areas I need to address, one of which is making good an original build mishap, and the other, a very prominent inaccuracy issue with the bodywork. Then there will be some additional detail to add here and there.
The first main issue concerns the track fitment. Although my tracks appeared to sit snugly over the sprockets and therefore, I assumed I had resolved the well-publicised kit sprocket issue, attempting to roll the tracks any further over both rotating sprockets revealed I definitely hadn’t. If the issue is not addressed only a few track teeth will locate between the sprocket rollers. Although barely just enough to allow a partial wrap around, on close inspection it's not ideal as the teeth in the links coming off both upper and lower runs don't engage and sit naturally. The actual sprockets were handed, and the rollers were offset differently on each side. The issue and the fix are documented here: Sprockit fix
As the tracks are going to be removed anyway to improve the weathering, I figured the sprocket issue could be dealt with first.
The kit comes with two types of sprockets, and I had used the type with the smaller circular central face. After checking images of the restored vehicle, typically they were of the alternative type with the larger face. As the photoetched step ring on one of the sprockets I had built was looking pretty beat up I decided to replace them with the larger faced ones. This would entail removing the two-part drive roller circular moulded parts from the old, then adding them to the new sprockets. I could then correct the offset issue and add the undamaged larger faced photoetched sprocket step rings.
The process was pretty tricky as the drive roller parts were extremely fragile, but it was carried out without any significant damage. With the drive roller rings added to the new sprockets and fixed in place with the correct left and right-handed offset, they were marked and test fitted successfully to the tracks.
The second main issue is the most visible. The angled upper body crew compartment side plates were designed to overhang the lower plates. It's not by much but clear to see on both the original damaged, and the restored vehicle images. The upper plates of the engine department in the kit have a prominent overhang but unfortunately, just like in many a Dragon Model and Cyber Hobby Sd.Kfz.251 Ausf C & D, the upper and lower plates in the kit simply butt up to each other with no upper plate overhang. To remedy this would involve either adding a whole new upper plate, adding just the overhang portion, or reducing the thickness of the lower plate.
As the interior of the upper panel had already been painted and weathered, it would have to be the latter. The stowage bins are positioned centrally on the lower side plate and as these were already fixed in place, I would only need to trim either side. Although this will involve the removal of quite a chunk of material, retaining the look of the angled rear profile was of most concern. This needs to remain as straight as possible. After an evening of scraping and sanding I eventually got the look I was after.
Birds eye view showing approx.50% of the material at the upper edge of the left-hand plate between the stowage boxes removed.
The upper section of the lower side plates either side of the stowage bins has now been reduced in thickness to taper to a narrower profile at the top. The upper plate now displays the correct overhang.
The upper plate overhang seen from the rear
The outwardly leaning lower side plate profile from the rear has been retained. The upper plate overhang at the rear is now evident.
Some further clean-up is required with finer grades of sandpaper before the upper sub assembly is added to the lower but I'm really pleased with how this process turned out.
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