Now I have had time to examine my twelve-year old build in detail there are some issues with the kit compared to the actual restored vehicle. There are three main areas that I felt needed addressing. One is making good an original build mishap, the second is a very prominent inaccuracy issue with the bodywork and the third is an essential fitment issue with the body to the chassis rails. Then there will be some additional detail to add here and there.
The first main issue concerns the track fitment. Although my already fitted tracks appeared to sit snugly over the sprockets, I assumed I had resolved the well-publicised sprocket fitment issue. But whilst attempting to roll the tracks any further over both rotating sprockets it was revealed I definitely hadn’t! If the issue is not addressed only a few track teeth will locate between the sprocket rollers. Although barely just enough to allow a partial wrap around, its visualy obvious as the track links coming off both upper and lower runs don't engage and sit naturally. The actual vehicle sprockets were handed, and the rollers were offset differently on each side. This is not represented in the engineering on the kit parts so will cause a fitment issue if not addressed. The issue and the fix are documented here: Sprockit fix
*2024 UPDATE* Unfortunately the link to this once PMMS operated site run by Terry Ashley is no longer visible, so I will try to best explain the fix below.
As the tracks are going to be removed anyway to improve the weathering on them, I figured the sprocket issue could be dealt with first.
Nice clear image showing the slightly forward handed offset position of each track link against the individual bolted on sprocket rubber pads
The kit offers two types of sprockets, and I had already fitted the type with the smaller circular central face. After checking images of the restored vehicle it was obvious I should have fitted the alternative type with the larger face. Doh! As the photoetched step ring on one of the smaller faced sprockets I had built was looking pretty beat up anyway it was a no brainer to conclude these had to be replaced with the larger faced ones. This would necessitate removing the two-part circular moulded drive rollers from the already built sprockets, as the same parts are used on both sprocket build options. I could then solve the offset issue when adding them to the larger faced sprockets.
To fix the sprocket issue I would first recommend marking up each sprocket outer faces (parts B18 or B30) LEFT and RIGHT. Out of the kit they are identical but we are going to make them 'handed' as per the real thing. The second step is to snip off the three keyway tabs on the ringed drive roller parts B22 that fixed to part B19. Out of the kit these key incorrectly into the rear of the sprocket outer face parts B18 or B30, leaving the track teeth unable to fit between the drive rollers as they should)
The three inner key tabs (circled) that need removing on part B22. If keyed into the sprocket face they have the drive rollers sitting centrally above each sprocket rubber pad. They should be offset slightly forward on each side.
Step three is to carefully remove ALL the square tabs (track teeth spacers) around the inner portion of the sprocket parts B18 or B30. The fix on the original PMMS site then instructs you to replace all the cut off internal tabs back onto the sprocket into their correct re-orientated positions. (slightly forward of their original locations on your now handed sprockets. From experience this really is not necerssary. For one, unless you snip every one off perfectly they are not going to re-align perfectly, and more importantly, they are difficult to see anyway once the tracks are fitted. So, all that is left to do is refit parts B19 and B22 which are now (without the keyed tab) free to rotate into any orientation inside the sprocket outer face part (B18 or B30) They can now be fixed so the sprocket rollers are visibly offset slightly forward for both sides. This can be done by eye but I recommend building up two suitable orientated lengths of track runs and to use them to test the fitment before commiting to final fixing.
The wheel on the left has been fixed to represent the port (drivers) side sprocket and the wheel on the right shows the remaining sprocket not yet fixed. The green lines show how the drive roller centre line has now slightly shifted forward. Compare this to the red line showing the roller sat in line with the wheel rib and centrally over the rubber pad
The fix process was made more hazardous for me as I had to first remove glued parts B19 and B22 from the alternative sprocket! It was pretty tricky as the ringed drive roller parts are extremely fragile. Thankfully it was carried out without too much visible damage. With the drive roller rings added to the new sprockets and fixed in place with the correct left and right-handed offset, they were marked and test fitted successfully to the tracks.
The rebuilt starboard side sprocket (without the PE stepring) with the track teeth now accurately engaged between the drive rollers showing the forward offset track links now sat snugly on the sprocket rubber pads.
Now it was time to turn to the second main issue. The angled upper body crew compartment side plates were designed to overhang the lower plates. It's not by much but clear to see on both the original damaged, and the restored vehicle images. The upper plates over the engine department in the kit have a prominent overhang but unfortunately, just like in many a Dragon Model and Cyber Hobby Sd.Kfz.251 Ausf C & D, the upper and lower plates in the kit simply butt up to each other with no overhang. To remedy this on an unbuilt kit I figured there would be a few options. Adding a whole new extended upper plate, adding just the overhang portion, or reducing the thickness of the lower plate.
As the interior of the upper panel on my build had already been painted and weathered, I opted for option three. The stowage bins are positioned centrally on the lower side plate and as these were already fixed in place, I would only need to trim either side of them. Although this will involve the removal of quite a chunk of material, retaining the profile of the angled rear plate was of most concern. This needs to remain as straight as possible. After an evening of scraping and sanding I eventually got the look I was after.
Birds eye view showing approx.50% of the material at the upper edge of the left-hand plate between the stowage boxes removed.
The lower side plates either side of the stowage bins have now been reduced in thickness to slightly taper to a narrower profile at the top. The upper plate now displays a decent amount of overhang.
The upper plate overhang is much improved now. Maintaining the lower plate profile to look as straight as possible along its full length down to the lower back plate was important.
The outwardly leaning lower side plate profile has been retained.
Some further clean-up is required with finer grades of sandpaper before the upper sub assembly is added to the lower but I'm really pleased with how this process turned out.
The third issue is one I should have noticed and addressed much earlier but I did not follow the build steps. The bodywork sub-assembly to chassis rail sub-assembly connection is by way of several keyway connections and they did not fit at all precisely on my kit. Bodywork assembly to chassis assembly fit issue
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