As already mentioned, I already built this kit many moons ago along with other 8-ton Trumpeter variants since, so I have gradually adopted a more linear approach which has improved the build experience. Therefore, I will occasionally deviate from the instructed build sequence.
Let’s commence with step one. The gearbox. This is instructed to be immediately fixed in place between the two built up chassis legs. I would strongly advise against fixing it in place at this point. The only connection points at this stage are on either side of the front end and rely on the tiny and imprecise ends of part A7. So, unless orientated correctly whilst the glue dries the weight of the gearbox assembly will make it sag rearward without any support. I would also recommend at this early step against adding the photo etch and plastic cab levers (parts D13, D38 and D54) until you are ready to attach the cab floor assembly to the chassis. They are far too vulnerable to further handing and are easily damaged.
The gearbox assembly minus the cab levers
The instructions on this step don’t point out that the gearbox must sit perpendicular to the chassis frame to accept three more parts that all also lie on the same orientation. Also, even if fitted it does not actually provide any real structural rigidity to the chassis and therefore, I would recommend if this kit is your first to to fix in place during step seven. The flex in the chassis legs will easily accommodate fitment after the full chassis frame is built up, so let the chassis assembly fully cure first.
Moving on to step two and chassis construction, the front transverse leaf spring assembly connects the two chassis legs at the front and the spare wheel strengthening tray (part WA15) connects them together at the rear. Top tip: Part A41 shown in step three can be test fitted in-between to aid chassis assembly alignment.
The gearbox assembly test fitted between the chassis legs
The components in step three now add some structural rigidity to the chassis. Plenty of clean-up is required especially on parts D23 and D24 so test fit everything before fixing comes highly recommended. There are also two small pieces of bended photoetch to add in this step (PE-WA5 & WA6) and they need to be orientated and assembled correctly as the holes in them accept the winch housing in a later step. Building up the winch assembly now to test fit would be my recommendation.
Internal chassis bracing and track suspension pick up points
Progress with step three parts fitted
In step four we construct the engine. This is a nice rendition of the HL62/64TUK and apart from one area that needs additional work to ensure it fits onto the engine mounts, it only requires a few extras to produce an authentic looking lump. It can be super detailed with photo-etch sets should you wish.
One area that is not obvious until engine fitment will cause frustration if not attended to now. The offending items are parts E19 and E36. Part E19 fits into a recess in the transmission bellhousing (part E36). Unfortunately, it is a little thick and does not sit flush. This extra thickness will extend the length of the whole engine assembly making clean fitment onto the four chassis engine mounts almost impossible. As both the front mounts (part B48) are separate parts it is easy to misalign them if not fully cured. So, ensure part E19 is sanded flush to part E36. This issue is relevant to all the HL62TUK engines that I have built up on Trumpeter kits and is an easy fix if you know in advance.
I will be fixing my engine side panels closed so I will not be fully building up the engine assembly on this build. I will however need to assemble the basic components as the sump is still visible. Be prepared to shave a little material off engine to gearbox shaft part E23 as this can make fitment of both assemblies a little tight.
My basic built engine assembly
A word of warning regarding the shackle pin parts B37. The instructions have you orientate them rearward, but they must sit forward. They will clip safely into the chassis leg holes without glue, but I suspect many builders will simply glue them in place. On this variant the middle cargo bed frame brackets attach onto the chassis legs just rearward of the shackle pin locating holes, so they will impede fitment if not orientated forward.
The winch cable is offered as a fairly hairy stringy material. It is not ideal and too easily frays. A lengthy of suitably sized copper cable is a much better substitute. I won’t be adding any cabling to my winch, so I have also left off the securing bars and rods (part PE-WA17)
The rear
chassis panel in step six has many components, even the tiny external cable
roller is unnecessarily engineered in two parts! The tow bar part A39 had huge
mould offset in my kit and required a fair bit of work to look decent.
Moving on to step seven the winch assembly is added and this is the time to affix the gearbox assemble from step one. This also where any incorrect spacing of the two photo-etch pieces (PE-WA5 & WA6) from step three might cause an issue. They are however easily accessible if they do need re-positioning.
Winch test fitted to check correct gearbox shaft orientation
Gearbox installation if not aligned and fixed in step two
The only reference for orientating it correctly at this point is to sight it up using the two holes in the chassis legs behind the sprocket drive shaft holes. You can then fix the winch in place as the winch gear shaft will support the rear of the gearbox. Support it further if necessary so it remains perpendicular to the chassis as both the front axle cradle (part D17) and the engine to gearbox shaft (part E23) are still to be fixed to it at the front. Top tip: To aid gearbox alignment first test fit the engine in the engine bay and mark the position of part E23 against the gearbox. Drill a hole in both the gearbox and part E23 and glue a pin in one part. You can then test fit the engine to keep the front of the gearbox orientated correctly whilst it cures in place.
You are also instructed to add all four-leaf springs in this step. The recessed holes in the chassis for the rearmost spring part B18 will likely require deepening a little with a drill. IMO, they don’t locate securely enough without doing this. Also, it is advisable to move straight on to step eight before the leaf spring to chassis connection cures. This is because all the axle location brackets (Parts A3, A4 & B35 x 2) connect to the ends of the leaf springs. Whilst the leaf spring connection is still pliable you can align them all up neatly. Lastly, part A22 is asking to be damaged if attached in this step. It can be safely added just before the bodywork goes on in step seventeen.
Engine installation is also instructed in this step too. It can be added at any time before the bulkhead is attached in step eighteen so can be painted separately if you prefer. It will not however fit once both bulkhead and radiator housing are fixed in place.
We are now almost a quarter way through the build and step eight deals mainly with suspension components. Top tip here is to leave the idler axle mounting points (parts A17, A18, A19 & A20) un-glued until you are ready to fit the tracks. This way you will have total control of the final track tension. This will prevent an overly tight or loose fit of the tracks and give you the opportunity of getting that perfect ‘sag’! In fact, as the idler wheel (B25 & WB7) to idler mount part A17 has such a shallow and weak connection, I found it safer attaching these two parts together well before any track tension might weaken the joint. You can always drill and pin them together for an even stronger bond.
Progress so far. Fuel tank and engine both test-fitted so as to leave the
chassis top open to assist airbrushing into all the nooks and
crannies.
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