Step fifteen builds up the two track runs. Fifty-four links are instructed per side which is typically noted in the Panzer tracks book. Trumpeter do offer a late production track type although it’s not the final version. They had the lightening holes removed. The kit link is a three-piece affair. Nice if you want to model a burnt-out vehicle, as the pads are a separate part, but it’s probably a part too many!
Tedious clean-up efforts aside they do look good and link together well. Use a thicker glue in construction to avoid sticking links together and you have a nice strong set of articulating tracks. Top tip: Even after careful sanding the pad and plate detail can still look a bit ‘messy’ on one side, so glue together the pads and plates for each track run leaving the clean side in the same direction. That way when you glue them all to the main track link part you will have just the clean sides visible.
As explained in step 14, with both sprockets now modified you will now have a left and right sprocket. Looking side on at each sprocket the roller should now sit over the forward portion of the track pad. I found it easier to final fix the roller ring parts in the correct orientation on the rear of the sprocket face part by using the built-up track runs. Don’t forget to check track direction if testing to a loose sprocket although once a correctly handed sprocket is fixed to the chassis the tracks really only fit in one direction.
We are almost at the halfway stage as step sixteen turns to cab construction, and I immediately looked for a solution to rework the incorrect seat layout in the cab. Trumpeter have given us a single cushioned bench instead of a lower and separated driver’s seat and added the angled cut-out on the passenger side only found on flak gun variants. The back rest moulding (part WA3) is offered as two evenly spaced cushions. Looking at Hilary Doyle’s scale drawings in Panzer Tracts #22-4 both the bench and back cushions are of different sizes. The driver’s seat is smaller and sits lower in the cab seat frame. The back cushion is also a lot thicker. In addition, the drawings show a single enclosed battery box sat against the side panel on the driver’s side and not two exposed batteries sitting side by side as the kit offers.
You can clearly see the height difference in the metalwork to accommodate the thicker drivers cushion in these resto vehicles.
Modifying the bench seat
Using part WA3, the kit back cushion moulding I cut a portion off one side and re-attached it to the other. Using the PT drawings as a guide, I split the one-piece bench into two and filled in the cut-out section.
As for the metalwork underneath, to cover the angled cut out I utilised unused part WB3 to extend the front panel, then filled the void and used plastic card to replace the lip and panel top. To simulate a thicker drivers cushion I added a thin horizontal lip out of plastic card under the driver’s seat area and then expanded the depth of the original seat with putty.The battery box was constructed out of plastc card.
The turn signal detail has now been removed off my cab side panels. They were omitted from 1943 onwards on the earlier metal cab and I have never seen any period images with them fitted to any wooden cab vehicles.
As I have
now started on the external bodywork, I thought it may be worthwhile at this
point to mention the various modifications that occurred during the vehicle’s
short production run. Most changes were features that were dropped due to the
materials savings plan so at this point your build can delete, add, change, or
modify certain parts to show a vehicle from a certain period. See here for the list of modifications seen on the Sd.Kfz.7
Holtzpritsch variant.









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