Dragon kit #6575 (2012) Panzer IV Ausf J last production.
This kit still gives many modern Pz.IV Ausf J kits a run for the money. It came out during DML’s golden age in the mid-noughties and is branded a smart kit. It is not an easy kit to track down these days, at least not from the UK anyway, but luckily, I did eventualy find one.
When fully built it an extremely accurate scale representation of the very last Panzer IV variant but like all kits it can be improved on. Its also a rewarding kit to put together so knowing some of the few pitfalls beforehand makes it all the more enjoyable to build.
Having read through both the kit instructions and the Panzer-tracts Pz IV publication, I thought it might be useful to highlight all the instructional errors; it is a DML kit after all 😊 and list all the anomalies, oddities and fit issues I found along the way. I also created a point of note list and will add my own build tips. These I will list in construction step order. Not only will this aid you build a more accurate representation but also highlights what additional upgrades might be necessary and serves to eliminate potential issues before messy mistakes could happen. I'm not adverse to a challenge but I appreciate being aware of these things in advance.
Accuracy might not be a high priority for everyone, but a trouble-free construction journey always makes for a pleasurable build.
Panzer IV Ausf J (Dragon kit #6575)
Instruction step 1:
Fit issue: If you choose the cast idler wheel option the inner track guide rings are not offered as a complete circular ring of photoetch. Instead, you are given three crescents (parts MA1) to attach to both halves of the idler moulding. To complicate things further there is a lip on only one side which would have you believe the three crescents are to be placed snugly inside the lip creating a full circle. They will not fit inside the lip! The option then is to place them on top of the lip, but the spacing then becomes too large, leaving an incomplete ring of PE! As you must create a full circle and mirror the ring on the other half of the idler moulding the only option is to place them on the outer edge on both halves, paying attention not to have them protrude beyond the wheel’s outer edge. Not ideal, but it really is the only way I could ensure a complete ring. These PE parts also determine the spacing for the track teeth so it is worth checking once fitted you can get the teeth in-between. My placement of the PE parts left plenty of room for the track teeth to fit.
Point of note: Two alternative return roller types are available. I was not able to discern a timeline for either.
Step 2:
Point of note: Alternative parts info. The larger tow coupling (parts D9, 10 & D11) was introduced in Dec 44.
Point of note: Two exhaust pipe flame suppressor types were installed around Aug 44. Both are found in the kit. A tall thin type and a smaller fatter type. I noticed on some ref pics that they can have either a flat plate at the base or folded down sides. You are only given the flat plate (PE part MA2) which is seen most often on the smaller designed type, but it would be easy enough to create the other option out of spare PE should you want to.
Step 3:
Fit issue: Lower hull (part X1) will have some sprue tree tags along the top of the side plates. These will all need removing to ensure the track guard (parts N1 & N2) sit flush on top.
Oddity: I am unsure if this is an issue with the engineering of the kit or how the real plates connected but the rear hull plate (part B1) protrudes slightly outwards at the top from the lower hull sides. The fit in the kit is excellent and it all aligns well but it does look a bit odd! There are faint weld lines on part B1, but they could probably do with enhancing.
Point of note: The track pin return plates (parts N7) were introduced in Nov 44.
Step 4:
Point of note: Missing detail - There are no casting stamps on the kit’s bogie to hull brackets (parts D13)
Step 5:
Point of note: The air intakes on the brake inspection hatches (parts N8) were phased out around Feb 45 and replaced with simple handles. This was not carried out on all builds by the end of the war.
Tip: I would recommend leaving the idler stub axle un-glued until the tracks are fitted to facilitate some tension adjustment.
Point of note: The bogie wheel attachment to the hull bracket casting is instructed as a solid fit, However, removing the two little tabs on parts D13 & D15 will allow for a little articulation of the suspension arms.
Step 6:
Point of note: The Schurzen track guard bracket parts T3 are shown in the
instructions as fitted in the upright position. If you are going to add any
wider Winterketten tracks the brackets need to be positioned horizontally at
this stage. The brackets are also quite chunky and have an awkward mold seam around them. Thinning them down will allow a better fitment for the Schurzen.
Fit issue: The simple engine bulkhead plate (part B24) slots down channels in the
lower hull moulding and dictates spacing and location of hull top plate part K.
It also determines the lowest height at which both the top plate and the rear side
plates (N5 & N11) will sit. My top plate appeared to pivot a touch on part B24 leaving
a tiny gap between both rear side and the rear plate. Shaving a little off the
top of part B24 with a sanding stick solved the issue completely.
Step 7:
Point of note: The engine hatch plate (part H22) was fitted with a second handle at
some point, and you are instructed to drill out two holes before fitment to the
top plate if fitting them. I have no idea when this second handle was added and
as this is a difficult area to view clearly, I am still unsure when this
feature first appeared.
Oddity: The instructions have the armoured pot (part B15) shown as having an
alternative part, but no other part is shown! Do Dragon mean that the
alternative is having no armoured pot fitted?
Step 8:
Point of note: The kit offers two alternative upper hull front armoured plates
(Parts E38 and N17) One has witness marks to allow for fitment of the later
designed lifting loops. The earlier design had lifting hooks welded or bolted to
the forward area of the upper hull side plates. Check photo refs if you are
building a specific tank. The Border Pz.IV Ausf J kit only supplies the later lifting
loop type.
Step 9:
Instruction error: The instructions call out for the ball mounted machine gun
armour ball (part G31), but this is incorrect and will not fit inside the
armoured lip on the front plate. Fortunately, there are two other alternatives in the kit. I used part E14 without issue.
Step 11 & 12:
Point of note: These two steps cover the addition of the pioneer tools. Unlike
many other Dragon Pz.IV kits of this era, that offer alternative tools without
brackets, what I had in my kit was just the tools with moulded on brackets.
They aren’t terribly bad, but the bracket detail is a little chunky, so either PE
and 3D items would enhance and improve the scale appearance.
Omission: The wiring of the Bosch driving lamp (part H54) which is visible
running down on to the glacis plate is not included in the kit. It is easy to use a thin piece of copper wire to add this detail.
Point of note: The armoured side plates over the engine cooling louvres are only
shown in the instructions as open and laid flat on the track guards, but they
can be positioned closed if you wish. No retaining clasp detail is present if positioned
closed so that would have to be sourced, or scratch built if required.
Step 14:
Point of note: Two gun barrel sleeve alternatives are provided (B41 & E37)
in the kit. The only difference I can tell is that one has weld detail running down its length.
Point of note: Four muzzle brake options are available so again check your refs
if you are building a particular vehicle.
Step 16:
Fit issue: Inner turret door plate mouldings G18 were a sloppy fit on my kit. In
fact, it is the worst fit issue I have come across so far. They just don’t
engage well to the inside of the turret door opening, and they really need to, as the inner ring will be visible if you display the turret side hatches open.
Careful manipulation is required to ensure equal amounts are visible around the
whole aperture.
Step 17:
Point of note: The four screw holes on the front of the turret roof need to be
filled as the turret moulding provided is the same one offered in their Ausf H kit. This features the gunners' vision port on the turret front plate. The screw holes are evidence
of where the internal mechanism was mounted. It was deleted on final
production Ausf J vehicles. *Thanks to Sam Dwyer for pointing this out to me 😊
Oddity: The turret bin support brackets (parts B14 & B23) locate into slots in the
main turret moulding and although the fit is fine the actual brackets bent back
towards the centre rear portion of the turret on the real thing. Again, a
little scratch work will be required if 100% accuracy is required. I was also a
little surprised that turret bin top latch clasps weren’t offered in PE as the
moulded-on detail is a little soft and lacking in detail.
Incorrect parts call out: The turret side hatch rain guards on Ausf H & J
models did not have the ribs seen on earlier variants. The instructions call
out part A37 which is incorrect. The correct part is on another sprue in the kit. Thanks
to David Parker for pointing this out
Step 18:
Instruction error: The turret roof should have a gun sighting marker in front of the
cupola, but the instruction step drawings do not show anything fitted! I am
confident that this part is PE part MA19 and the instructions fail to point it
out.
Step 19:
Possible fit issue: If you decide to add the Thoma Schurzon (why wouldn’t you?)
then check front bracket parts T22 and T30 engage neatly before fixing. I was
positive they had mixed the parts up but cannot be 100% as I did not follow the
instruction sheet at this point. The lower brackets engage into the upper hull side
plates at an angle and therefore each part is handed and each moulding keyed to
fit. I must admit I didn’t notice they were different but am positive I picked
out the parts correctly. Trouble is I didn’t check-fit this connection as I
attached my brackets first to the tubular rail for a cleaner connection. It was
however easy to re-work them without issue.
Another anomaly
I found with the Schurzen brackets is that the horizontal reinforcing part T32
should locate under bracket part T29 in-between two small guide pips. Only it
doesn’t as the guide pips are not present on part T29! Strangely the guide pips
can be found on the adjacent bracket part T24 where no reinforcing bracket is
attached. As already mentioned, I had already added all my brackets to the top tubular
rail but parts T24 and T29 appear to be identical in shape so can easily be
swapped.
Step 21 & 22:
Fit issue: Beware of the Schurzen instruction guide template marking. Although
the six metal mesh sections roughly fit the guide, they are not perfect so DO
NOT be tempted to cut any of the mesh to size just yet!
Tip: Aligning the mesh parts on the template will show some sides too long and
some too short. The angled sections were also not very well defined on mine,
but all will be well as the PE reinforcing frames hold it all to shape. Hold
the mesh on the templates with equal amounts of over or under hang and mark the
holes for the plastic bracket part T10. Getting the brackets to sit nice and
square on the mesh will ensure each panel buts up to the next and the spacing
for the top brackets have a chance of connecting well with the cut-outs on the
tubular rail.
Once the brackets are fitted. (don’t forget to mirror switch the orientation of
the brackets for each side) dry fit them to the brackets on the track guard and
this will determine at what point to attach the top PE frames, so they locate
nicely in the tubular rail cut-outs.
Dragon includes two plastic parts that act as a form shaper for the PE frames,
and it works really well. Clean and bend up the top strip PE parts and dry fit
them onto each of the mesh sections individually, so they align with the tubular
rail cut outs. Mark the location (don’t worry about any over or under hang on
the mesh at this stage) and then glue the top PE frames on whilst squeezing the frames together. This traps the mesh inbetween them.
Do this for each top PE section and then you can add all the plastic top
brackets (parts T10) These brackets are chunky and benefit from thinning,
especially on the insides where they attach to the rail. Doing this gives more
room for manoeuvre on the rail but be careful, thinning them will also weaken
them.
Once dry you can test fit each section until happy that all three align well to
each other. The forward angled portion of the Schurzen is offered in plastic
(parts T8 & T17) and they locate into brackets added onto the track guard,
so fitting that first will determine the spacing of the remaining mesh panels.
Point of note: I am personally unsure how these mesh Schurzen panels fitted
against each other in reality. Most period images show them butting up against
each other, but the prototype image of an Ausf H fitted with them in the Panzer
Tracts 4-3 book has the middle panel sitting over both front and back. The
Dragon kit is engineered to have them butt up against each other as the top
mounting brackets on the top frames are of equal length.
They do fit well butted up against one another. Once nicely aligned trim the mesh if
necessary and fit the lower PE frames (two types can are offered) The rear
section on each side also has a vertical frame at the rear so once happy with
mesh alignment that can also be trimmed and added in the same way. The PE
frames are also easy to cut should you need to.
As mentioned in my introduction bolt heads can be found on the sprue tree edge,
and these will need fitting to where the holes in the frames are.
The horizontal mesh screens that locate between the upper hull and Schurzen rail are
included in the kit but after checking my ref pics most war time images show
these missing.
The full build log on Track-Link can be found here
I also compared this kit to the more recent Border Models Ausf J kit. See here for details
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