Dragon 6253 1/35 Tiger I Late production (Build time)

The next step was to decipher the infamous Dragon instructions. Credit to them they do clearly break down the various differences for each of the three variants at each stage, but I still double checked that these were correctly picked out and made additional notes from the David Byrden website. The instructions are ahem....extremely busy, but TBH, apart from a few dubious indicators of parts placement the instructions are general pretty good. Having three variant options on many of the steps makes it look far worse than it actually is. I simply highlighted the parts required wherever a variant choice appeared to keep me on track. I believe there are a few parts mis-labelled, but these are often on mirrored parts that are easy to spot.

The first steps build up the running gear. The lower hull tub is a one-piece affair to which you first add the front tow hook extensions, torsion bars, wheels and rear plate. To take advantage of the adjustable torsion bar engineering you simply guide them through the hull and fix them into the curved grooved slots (simulating the real movement range) in small fixings added to the opposite side. This system allows the torsion bar axle ends to then compress and rebound as they would do on the real vehicle. 

 

 

 

Although the instructions are not completely clear, the track pin return plates are to be positioned slightly differently if the smaller idler is used. It fixes angled down at the rear to operate effectively on the smaller idlers. Apparently even the German engineers took a while in figuring out and adopting this simple fix   David Byrden also points out that the smaller idler wheel was introduced about a month before the thicker roof, so the larger idler is unlikely to have been present on any vehicle represented by this kit. I would recommend leaving the idler axle unfixed until the tracks are added to get the perfect track tension. There are two sets of middle and outer wheels, with one set representing those fitted to the final version. Two outer sprocket types are offered. The only difference is that one has concave and one convex spokes.

Test fitting the inner and middle sets of road wheels.

 

 

Two lower hull rear plates are included with one having the different fixings used on the command variant. Before adding any of the components the ATAK Zimmerit was added to the back plate and any location holes it covered, opened up. I figured any battle damage was also best added to it at this stage. There is the option of one plastic or two types of metal tow shackles and pins. I understand the squarer shaped ones were fitted to the final version. David Byrne points out two small updates in step 5. Firstly, the exhaust muffler top guard is supported on pins (parts C3) and these are orientated incorrectly. These are easily repositioned using his guide image below. I drilled new holes for added strength but it would be just as easy to snip the location pips off the pins and reposition them.

 

 

Secondly, the adapter plate that is positioned between the two exhaust stacks sits on two small posts moulded to the rear hull plate. They are apperently 1mm too long so reducing their size allows the plate to sit as intended. The exhaust shields are offered in both plastic and pre-formed photo-etch. Whatever medium you choose the shields were actually mounted to small square spacers. This is not a detail this Dragon kit managed to add. Many new kits including the Takom big box kits do. Again, these are easy enough to scratchbuild out of plastic card if going for 100% accuracy. The jack brackets are also offered in both plastic and photo-etch.

I opted for the late/final gun tank rear plate option

I have read that Dragon deliberately moulded the hull with a slight warp in the hull tub as a design feature intended to allow for a snug fit with the hull roof and side plates. The rear plate is big enough and strong enough to force the hull sides into the proper alignment, but at the front it requires a little help to overcome the warp. Positioning a length of sprue or wood or brass etc, cut down to the necessary size, will brace the lower hull to allow the perfect fitment of the roof plate moulding. Images from David Bryden's website illustrate this below.