Tiger I Dragon 6253 Late production Chapter 4: Applying ATAK Zimmerit

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Skipping ahead of fitting the few engine components, I mulled over how best to approach adding the hull zimmerit. The separately moulded side armour plates first require fixing to the hull tub sides. Spacing is dictated by some very chunky holes and they fit precisely, butting up perfectly to the rear plate. 

Test fitting the ATAK zimmerit sheets against these side plates found that they also attach to the side profile of the armoured front plate. This front plate is not added for a few more steps in the instructions and is first to be attached to the top plate moulding. I didn't really want to add too many smaller parts before having to handle the model, so, ideally I needed to add the armoured plate to the hull tub. Checking that fixing it to the hull tub instead would not disturb the build sequencing or impede any other parts placement, I found it is possible, but only if the lower glacis plate is fixed in place at the same time. Two glacis plate options are offered. One with moulded on front track guards and one without, so you can add PE track guards with the option of folding them back or adding damage etc.  

As I was going to represent a vehicle with zimmerit applied to the front armoured plate, glacis, and bow plate, I could now attach all these parts and the zimmerit sheets at the same time. The hull side zimmerit sheets have a myriad of small square witness holes to open up to fit around moulded on track guard mounting studs and cable fixings. Once these are opened up with a sharp blade the zimmerit fits really well. Likewise, both front and rear sheets also mated up nicely. There is the inevitable small amount of tidy up to do where the sheets meet, but overall I'm happy with the way it's looking.

ATAK advise to sand down the back of the Zimmerit sheets before attaching to assist adhesion. To bond the sheets to the hull I was advised Tamiya white top liquid cement works well, and gives plenty of time to adjust into position.

The exhaust shields are offered in both plastic and PE. The PE parts are preformed and look really tasty. There really is no contest here as to which option was going to get used. If annealed first, some realistic battle damage can be reproduced. These will not be fixed in place until later steps to allow for painting of the armoured covers and exhaust stacks.

 

The remaining rear plate zimmerit sheets were added and the PE shields test fitted to ensure no surprises come final fixing. I’m still in two minds as to whether to fit the rear mudguards. If left off, two shallow alignment slots under the hinges will have to be filled. The convoy light and C-hook brackets will be added in later steps to avoid damage.

 

Hull top plate moulding dry fitted exposing the engine radiator, fans, and ducts. There is a lot of nicely rendered detail here and it all fits extremely well. 

 

Instruction steps 8 through 11 are busy, busy, busy, with all manner off components and fixings to be added. Whilst I'm on a roll I'm going to skip these steps and get the remaining zimmerit fixed onto the turret. 

 

Before any fixings were added to the one-piece turret shell the ATAK zimmerit was added. Two pattern types are available. One that matches the hull and one with a larger spaced ridge. Check which option to choose if representing an actual vehicle. I intended to use the more common larger type, but I had a really blond moment and added the smaller type to one side 😖 More research now required!

 

The ATAK zimmerit sheets fit really precisely to the turret contours, with every sheet witness mark cut-out matching perfectly against all the kit detail. The ATAK set also includes two resin circular vision slits, but is is advisable to chisel/sand down the kit's moulded on detail first, so they don't sit too proud.

 

 

Chapter 5