Thursday, 24 November 2022

8-ton, Sd.Kfz.7 Step by step build of Trumpeter kit #01507. Build steps 24 to 28

 Previous chapter

Step 24 The cargo body

Whilst pulling the cargo body parts off the sprues I remembered how exaggerated the woodgrain detail is. It can be sanded back a little to improve its appearance. 

 

Internally, there is also the issue of the rifle lower stowage brackets being placed on the body floor. As mentioned in the modifications chapter earlier, final versions of this vehicle had these placed on the lower planking of the equipment rack so as to leave a totally flat cargo floor. A much larger issue however, is the omission of an integral part of this vehicle; the wooden equipment rack! Instead, Trumpeter have offered some additional internal planking dividers which does follow the lower footprint of the real rack, only the planking layout is solid and not spaced like the real thing. The photo-etch rifle framework parts PE-WB15 & 16 is also pure fantasy, and the top rifle bracket detail (parts WC16 & WC17) should be attached in a higher position on the equipment rack, which the kit does not provide! If you want to display a full rack with rifle bracket detail you would have to scratch build one.

Detail doesn’t get any better as we proceed to step twenty-five & six where the crew bench seats are added. The actual benches sat back-to-back across the whole width of the body. See the Panzer Tracts scale drawings for full detail. The Trumpeter kit provide two benches which are positioned opposite each other. This mistake is also made in the Dragon Holzpritsche kit, so again, the bench seat would have to be scratch built.

The red rectangle in the drawing below is the location of the rear back to back crew benches.




A selection of resto vehicle images cleariy showing the rear bench seat layout. Note how the lower rifle rack brackets are attached to the bottom plank on the equipment rack and not on the floor.





 

There is a saving grace to all these cargo body innacuracies though, as the kit provides a full cargo and cab tilt cover. In addition, they supply the open framework as well, although this looks nothing like the one fitted onto this vehicle! 

 

Period images of the vehice's tilt cover 



Thankfully, you can hide all the inaccuracies and omissions mentioned so far by simply adding the included tilt canvas mouldings. They don’t look particularly exciting in bare plastic, and they are a little too uniform and straight, especially around the bottom edges, but the good news is they fit well. Also, window flap detail is present as are some of the strap detail, but there is room for improvement. 

 

 

Externally there are also some prominent accuracy issues with the wooden body detail. First up, Trumpeter have offered the front, rear, and side panels with four planks when there should be five. In addition, the crew bench end frame detail that was attached to the side panels is missing. Lastly, the tailgate moulding omits the internal metal steps and the option of the central cut out, which is seen in many period images and was to allow the tailgate to be lowered when towing. There were actually two triangular brackets and not just the one (kit part PE-WB22) as offered in the kit. These were ‘bump stops’ for a lowered tailgate.





In steps twenty seven & twenty eight it is nice to see that all wooden side body parts are free from sink marks on both sides, which is a commendable achievement. The floor panel part WC23 has a few shallow ones on the underside but most are hidden under the support framework. No bolt detail is added on the underside. In step twenty-seven the two main framework rails (parts WD26 & WD27 do benefit from reducing the size of their locating nubs, otherwise they won’t sit flush in the grooved recesses under the floor. 

 

The brackets and photo-etch support rail detail added in steps twenty-seven & eight is accurate here, unlike the whole framework detail that the Dragon kit provides. Dragon sticks with an inaccurate heavy-duty chassis to cargo body framework which was only fitted to flak vehicle variants.



In step thirty-one you are instructed to snip off the top of all the upper hinge plate detail if you are fitting the cargo tilt cover. This is a simplified solution as the canvas moulding will still bulge out over them. The bottom edge of the tilt cover moulding is far too straight and uniform so thinning it from the inside, especially where it sits over raised detail on the lower planking will allow it to sit more naturally. 


If you just want to build what is provided in the kit, whether it be an open frame or with the tilt covers added, it does all build up nicely. The inclusion of photo-etch to represent the reinforcing rails, clasps, licence plate, and locking bar detail being particularly nice touches.

I also carried out some additional work to the interior of the cab tilt cover. There is no window flap detail present on the kit moulding so I used some plastic card, VMS paper and paper shaper to bling things up a bit.


Progress so far 



 


In step thirty-two we discover connecting the cargo body onto the chassis is not a simple slot and drop affair. Firstly, it looks like all Trumpeter 8-ton kits provide the same chassis leg mouldings which include all the differing locating tabs for all the different kit variants. This kit only utilises the front and rear locating tabs. The rest can be removed. The cargo body has three brackets and although the rear of the cargo body keys well onto the chassis, the front tabs require almost complete removal to allow the body frame brackets to sit flush over the chassis legs. 

A front chassis to cargo body bracket 

 



 

A middle chassis to cargo body bracket


I suggest removing the front locating tabs on the chassis rail entirely as the cargo body framework bracket detail effectively wraps around the chassis rails anyway.

 

The cargo body on this variant connects to the chassis with a third middle bracket. As already mentioned this happens to sit just behind the shackle pin location point. Frustratingly in exactly the spot where the instruction diagram illustrates you to orientate the shackles earlier in the build! Fortunately, the shackle pins rotate fore or aft on the location hole in the chassis but, I suspect many modellers would have already committed the glue. Add your own expletive!


Next chapter
 

 

Friday, 18 November 2022

8-ton, Sd.Kfz.7 Step by step build of Trumpeter kit #01507. Build steps 17 to 23

 Previous chapter

In step seventeen the build sequence shows fitment of both front body moulding part WA4 and the cab-assembly to the chassis. A bad alignment here and it will have a knock on effect to many other parts. As I like to keep sub-assemblies separate to allow good paint coverage, I have adopted an alternative build sequence which ensures the engine compartment and bulkhead assembly (yet to be built) aligns nice and square with both part WA4 and the cab-assembly. And just as importantly nice and square onto the chassis. I will explain shortly.

It is at this stage of the build you must attach the steering shaft to the chassis if not already added. Both the lower cab-assembly and the cab bulkhead-assembly assembled in the next step effectively traps the one piece steering shaft in place.  

The reason I have adopted a new assembly sequence of these major body parts is that there are no markers on the chassis to align the lower cab-assembly square! If you place it on the chassis the only spacing reference is that it butts up to the steering shaft if this has already been fitted! 

If you must fix both parts down at this stage I would advise fitment of part WA4 first. This does have a positive and precise connection onto the chassis by way off tabs behind the bumper bar that will locate into the front of the chassis legs. Once added this will dictate the spacing of the cab assembly. Beware though, if the front of the chassis legs are not perfectly square it will off-centre part WA4 and have a knock on effect to all subsequent major assemblies thereafter!

 

Wednesday, 9 November 2022

8-ton, Sd.Kfz.7 Step by step build of Trumpeter kit #01507. Build steps 15 to 16

 

Step fifteen builds up the two track runs. Fifty-four links are instructed per side which is typically noted in the Panzer tracks book. Trumpeter do offer a late production track type although it’s not the final version. They had the lightening holes removed. The kit link is a three-piece affair. Nice if you want to model a burnt-out vehicle, as the pads are a separate part, but it’s probably a part too many!

Tedious clean-up efforts aside they do look good and link together well. Use a thicker glue in construction to avoid sticking links together and you have a nice strong set of articulating tracks. Top tip: Even after careful sanding the pad and plate detail can still look a bit ‘messy’ on one side, so glue together the pads and plates for each track run leaving the clean side in the same direction. That way when you glue them all to the main track link part you will have just the clean sides visible. 

 


Tuesday, 1 November 2022

8-ton, Sd.Kfz.7 Step by step build of Trumpeter kit #01507. Build step 14 and the sprocket fix

Previous chapter

We are nearly at the halfway point and in step fourteen it’s time to deal with the sprocket fit problem. As already mentioned, it has two issues. The main one is fairly simple to remedy, if not a little time consuming. Trumpeter have not offered a left and right sprocket which was designed with slightly forward offset rollers. The second issue is that the kit's outer sprocket part contains bevelled grooves on the face. Similar marks can be seen on the face in the below resto vehicle image, but they are definitely not deeply grooved. 

 

The grooves don’t show in the Panzer Tracts book or appear in any period reference images of the vehicle.