Small Island Scale Models: Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) armoured cargo version. Primer, base coating and the hairspray technique

Fully primed in red oxide.

Although I do not intend to beat up the paint finish on the exterior, there will have been prominent areas on the platform and side panels which will likely have seen some significant wear even over a short operating life. For this task, I will employ the ever-dependable hairspray method.

For this project I will be using MRP paints. These are lacquer based and require thinning and cleaning up with a lacquer thinner and not water. These are excellent paints that can be airbrushed direct from the bottle without the need for thinner if desired. I found for base coats my 0.4mm needle worked fine running between 10-12psi. You do need a few coats to build up the opacity, but what you are rewarded with is a lovely smooth and tough finish.

There is a little confusion about whether MRP paints are suitable when utilising the hairspray technique. I can categorically state they work absolutely fine. Obviously, this is all dependant on the type and the amount of hairspray used and the type and thickness of any overcoats laid down. There are plenty of tutorials on the subject but personally I have always achieved good results with the Tresamme fine mist cans of hairspray. I often decant and use via an airbrush for smaller areas to be covered. Out of the can a couple of swift passes at arm’s length is all that is required.

Chipping with MRP Paints

With MRP paints there is no need to protect any undercoat layers with varnish. It is tough enough to remain intact unless you really abuse it with sharp tools. Tamiya rattle can red oxide primer that I used is also extremely durable.

Chipping can begin as soon as the overcoat layer of paint is touch dry. I have found lukewarm water works better than cold in agitating the hairspray and the surface needs a little time to absorb any moisture. A drop of detergent can help to avoid any water pooling. Whereas even a soft brush or a cocktail stick is enough to scratch the surface on a Tamiya/water mixed overcoat, creating the same effects over this lacquer overcoat takes a little longer. Some modellers have even employed fibreglass pencils to start things off! However, if the ratios of hairspray and paint is in the sweet spot, extremely fine chips and scratches can be made without too much effort. Good results don’t happen overnight, so testing the method on a shelf queen or spare piece of plastic card will pay dividends.

Base coat

For this sWS I was happy with just the one red primer layer to chip down to. For the base coat I used MRP-216 dark Yellow-RAL 7028 (variant 2 Ausgabe 1944) It was airbrushed in two fine coats. The paint finish does exibit a satin sheen which will help with any pin washing and will unlikely require any additional varnish coats.

Base coat chipping

The chips on the exterior were kept light and mainly just to the very edges and areas where wear would likely occur immediately in operational use. The cargo bed however was roughed up far more, with some treadplate panels receiving some serious wear and tear.