Rye Field Models RM - 5086 1/35 StuH 42 & StuG. III Ausf G late production

 

Having recently finished building RFM’s Panzer IV Ausf J and currently still having lots of fun with their Panzer IV Ausf J interior kit, I really fancied tackling another one of their 1/35 armour kits. This year I’ve not started another soft skin, which is what I mainly build, as these kits have just been such a pleasurable experience. The engineering is so good, and the plastic such a similar colour match, that I keep thinking I’m building a Tamya kit😉  

 

 

 

As the end of last year was all about Panzer IVs for me, this year I’m maxing out on StuG’s. Over the last few months, I have Dragon’s lovely StuG III Ausf F8 ready for paint. This will be based on an Italian campaign vehicle as I have some nice period images which capture some unusual features.

 

 

 

 

I also ‘blitzed’ through Takom’s StuG III Ausf G (Early). This was built straight out of the box with no intention of losing any sleep over its many inaccuracies.

 

 

 

 

So, as I’m slowly getting to know my way around a Panzer III chassis and many of the later StuG variants, I figured why not check out one of RFM’s StuG's. I choose their Ausf G late kit and it’s a belter. I’ve read there are a few small anomolies but they are minimal and nothing that cannot be easily remedied. According to those knowledgeable on ML, it is the perfect base kit that requires little extra work to portray a decent Alkett built last production Ausf G.

 

This is the non-interior 2022 released kit 5086 and you can build a StuG III or a StuH42. RFM 5086 info It includes both Alkett and MIAG track guards as it incorporates sprues from their Panzer III as well as from earlier StuG kits. The tracks are RFM’s own individual links which incorporates a jig to complete small runs, speeding up construction. There is no turned metal barrel, but the one-piece slide moulded one provided is easy to clean up. There are two frets of photoetch. The largest covers the Schurzen plates. The wheels incorporate poly caps which I personally like and fit nice and snug just like on many a Tamiya kit.

 

The lower hull is of flatpack design and fits together perfectly. The torsion bars can be made workable, or you can simply glue the ends onto the lower hull. There is even a choice to build adjustable shock absorbers. Your choice. When it comes to the bow armour the StuG III went through quite a few production design changes in this area. Unlike another certain manufacturer I could mention, the correct parts are called out, even though there are several other variant parts available on the sprues. The running gear lines up really nicely as does all the features on the rear plate. 

 

The interlocking bow plate portion which would be partly visible just forward of each sprocket on each lower hull side, strangely isn't moulded on. I chiselled out the feature and added the welding marks. The transmission plate is just dry fitted in the image below.

 

 

One of the oddities in the kit, is the choice of tracks. The open guide horn type was seen on StuG III's, but the fitment was almost certainly not common. A period image that captured my attention had the more common type, seen on these variants, and as I had a 3D set of T-Rex links, I figured these were the ones to go for. That decision wasn’t one of my best! Unlike three earlier sets which I had a blast with, these were a right PITA. They definitely were not from the same batch as my earlier sets, as the material was far more brittle. I also had far too many links break! To compound the issue the top of the pins did not appear to show any taper, and a significant percentage were already damaged in their small bags! TBH, I thought of contacting the seller but figured, I should at least see if I can build up two complete runs first. I did, but only just, and the pins were falling out as quick as I popped them back in! In the end and after a selection of choice words, I brush painted over the link pin ends with Vallejo grey primer. This seemed to solve the issue, but I then found the links were a tight fit over the sprocket, and I now don't trust them to take much more handling!  

 

After all the track building issues, I decided to give the kit tracks a go. Also, as RFM only offer the earlier style round tow cable clamps, I ordered the correct square Alkett type from Panzerwerk Design Alkett late tow cable brackets. Whilst postage is way in excess of their cost, I also plumped for some of their Type 6B tracks  Pz.III & IV type 6B links at the same time. They look good and have favourable reviews, so I will build them up when they come, and choose whether they trump the kit tracks later in the build.

 

As it would give the choice to display the vehicle on uneven ground, I opted to utilise the kit's adjustable torsion bar set up, which work in conjunction with the kit’s optional moveable damper units. Due to the kit's engineering in this area this system naturally allows the wheels to lift over any obstacle beneath them, and the moveable damper units equally compress, but the design does not enable the torsion bars to naturally rebound. This effect is visible in the first image below. The first and last front bogie wheels are slightly affected unnaturally by the kit track tension and are pulled a little higher than they would normally sit on level ground. It’s not really an issue per say, and if displayed on even ground the final position can still be corrected, so it’s nice to have this option.

 

 

The T-Rex tracks do look the business, but this set was far from perfect. The track tension on the other side is a touch loser on the image below, so all the bogie wheels sit nice and level.