Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) armoured cargo version Chapter 13: Stowage

 

The stowage comes from multiple sources including Miniart, Eureka, Sol Models and AK to name a few. They were all base coated with Vallejo acrylics and weathering effects have begun with the same MIG enamel tones used on the vehicle. It took some time to whittle down the selection of items I had prepared but I’m happy with how they are now positioned. There are still a few more tiny items and some tools I am still working on to be added. The last step will be to log the positioning, remove them and add some refinement with oils. Then they can be fixed in place and work can begin to harmonise the overall effect on the load bed.

 

Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) armoured cargo version Chapter 12: Constructing a base part 2

Before I could add the AK Asphalt texture paste to the raised road section the piece required framing. I had purchased some Oak veneer but test fitting it exposed an issue with the cut of the Styrofoam on one of the sides. I had used a foam cutter, and I had started from what I figured was a nice straight edge. Unfortunately, I didn't spot a couple of wavy undulations in it and adding the veneer would only expose the flaw. So, to plan B and I had just enough Basswood left from a previous project.  These are 1.6mm thick. I marked, cut and added four nice straight side pieces instead. I cut them a tad long so I could sand them square...or as sqaure as I managed to cut the Styrofoam!

 

Once they had cured to the styrofoam with the aid of UHU Por glue, and each other, with wood glue, AK dark mud mixed with tea leaves and scatter was added into any small gaps that were left and blended into the existing terrain.

 

Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) armoured cargo version Chapter 11: Constructing a base part 1

My intention was always to display the sWS on a small diorama. I had made some rough drawings before building began and had articulated the front suspension and angled the front wheels for this purpose. This was to be a simple base displaying the vehicle abandoned in a muddy field. It would include a small section of road, a shell crater and a telegraph pole and a single figure.

 

Sketching out the scene it became obvious that whilst the shell crater gave a little narrative as to why the vehicle had been abandoned, adding it would enlarge the size of the base more than I had first intended. To give it more interest I would raise the roadway on an embankment beyond a small ditch.

Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) armoured cargo version. Chapter 10: More mud, dust and rust

 I have started adding volume to the scratches and scuffs and dirt and mud has been added to both the top of the fenders and the load bed area.  Vallejo acrylic black brown was carefully painted into the centres of the exposed primer with a fine brush and enamel rust effects were spotted on with a brush and then blended out. Graphite will be added to edges to complete the worn look in the final steps.

 

Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) armoured cargo version. Chapter 9: Pin wash and adding initial weathering effects to the exterior and loadbed

With the running gear weathering complete it was time to work on the cab and load bed. To start things off a pin wash with MIG Neutral enamel was applied followed by adding AK enamel rust over the larger scratches and scuffs. Abtielung grease was added to the load bed. This will be allowed to dry before a second round of pin washes and further effects are added.

Zvezda Mercedes L4500A Chapter 11: Creating a diorama

Previous chapter 

After starting to build and paint some accessories I got side tracked, as I often do, so the truck and trailer were relegated to a nice dust free storage box. Early in 2024 I got some inspiration from the most excellent ‘The Army that got away' publication to restart the project. The book tells the story of how 15 Army largely escaped from their Atlantic coast defensive positions after D-Day. Pursued without any real urgency they escaped via the Scheldt estuary pretty much intact.  There is some great info and period images that I’ve never seen before, and it gave me some ideas on how I could finish of this project.

I started building a base that I could display both vehicles abandoned and pushed off the side of the road with GI's rummaging over the booty.

Starting with a long wooden picture frame and some polystyrene I began playing with ideas. Having weathered the underside of the truck with the intention of it being visible I eventually had them both sat in a roadside ditch. The bank behind them would contain a hedgerow and some trees.

 

Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) armoured cargo version. Chapter 8: Exhaust muffler

 

I have completed the visible portion of the exhaust muffler with the brilliant Lifecolor acrylic rust set.  I started with a pinky hot manifold base coat. Next came various applications of the three darkest rust tones, generally adding them lightest first but also going back and forth building up the layers until I felt I was getting somewhere. An extremely diluted lightest rust tone was added over the clamps. MIG smoke pigment was added in and around the end of the pipe.

 

Dragon 6253 1/35 Tiger I Late production Chapter 5: Gun mantlet and metal barrel

Previous chapter 

 

The breech, mantlet and barrel assembly are to be constructed first. Dragon clearly points out the mantlet and muzzle brake options applicable to each variant. The ATAK Zimmerit kit includes two of these mantlet options in resin. The command variant option is the one not included but as this variant deleted the MG, it is easy enough to cover the MG hole on either of the resin options.  The ATAK parts are a perfect match to the plastic parts, so no extra work is required. You get both a plastic and turned metal barrel and these key in to either the earlier large or final smaller type muzzle brakes. 

 

Dragon 6253 1/35 Tiger I Late production Chapter 4: Applying ATAK Zimmerit

Previous chapter  

Skipping ahead of fitting the few interior engine components, I mulled over how best to approach adding the remaining hull zimmerit. The kit's separately moulded side armoured plates will first require fixing to the hull tub sides. Spacing is dictated by some very chunky holes in the hull tub moulding and so they fit precisely, butting up perfectly to the rear plate. Test fitting the zimmerit sheets against these side plates found that they also attach to the sides of the armoured front plate. This front plate is not added for a few more steps and is instructed to be attached to the top plate moulding. I didnt really want to add too many parts before having to handle the model getting the zimmerit down, but ideally I needed to add the armoured plate to the hull tub assembly. Checking over that fixing it to the hull tub would not disturb the build sequencing or impede any other parts placement, it was possible to add it to the hub as long as the glacis plate was fixed in place at the same time. Two glacis plates are offered. One with moulded on front track guards and one without, so you can add the PE ones if you wish.  As the front armoured plate, glacis and bow plate also require zimmerit, I could now attach it all at the same time. The side zimmerit sheets have a myriad of small square holes to open up to fit around moulded on track guard mounting studs and cable fixings. Once opened up the zimmerit fitted really well. Likewise, both front and rear sheets also mated up nicely. There is the inevitable small amount of tidy up to do and a smidgen of putty will be required to mate all four sheets as they meet at each corner but overall, I'm happy with the way it looks.

Dragon 6253 1/35 Tiger I Late production Chapter 3: Construction

Previous chapter 

 

The next step was to decipher the infamous Dragon instructions. Credit to them they do clearly break down the various differences for each of the three variants at each stage, but I still double checked that these were correctly picked out and made additional notes from the David Byrden website. The instructions are ahem....extremely busy, but TBH, apart from a few dubious indicators of parts placement the instructions are general pretty good. Having three variant options on many of the steps makes it look far worse than it actually is. I simply highlighted the parts required wherever a variant choice appeared to keep me on track. I believe there are a few parts mis-labelled, but these are often on mirrored parts that are easy to spot.

The first steps build up the running gear. The lower hull tub is a one-piece affair to which you first add the front tow hook extensions, torsion bars, wheels and rear plate. To take advantage of the adjustable torsion bar engineering you simply guide them through the hull and fix them into the curved grooved slots (simulating the real movement range) in small fixings added to the opposite side. This system allows the torsion bar axle ends to then compress and rebound as they would do on the real vehicle. 

Kit constuction curtailed

05 June 2024

Over the last 12months or so I seemed to have slowly been developing a very worrying and most annoying allergy. I'm branding it GluFlu! 

 

Sadly, it appears that the cumulative effect of continuous exposure has now meant I literally cannot currently spend any time in the vicinity of an open pot of adhesive, even with a mask on, without succumbing 12hrs later to one or even two days of really bad flu-like symptoms!   So, I’m having to take a step back from any type of construction work!  Hopefully not indefinitely! 

 

This all started after switching to both white and green top Tamiya adhesives a couple of years ago. I think the catalyst might have been due to one spillage in particular and even though the mancave was thoroughly aired out and the cutting mat replaced, my nasal mucus membranes must have taken a huge hit, and I think subsequent and regular exposure has triggered progressively worse nasty flu like episodes. 

 

Thankfully I can still airbrush (always with a mask), brush paint with acrylics, weather with enamels etc, without issue, so, it’s just painting, weathering and finishing projects for me for the foreseeable future. I'm really fortunate that I'm such a glacially slow project finisher and still have way too many queens of the shelf 🥴

 

Dragon 6253 1/35 Tiger I Late production Chapter 2: Choosing a vehicle to build

Previous chapter

Knowing very little about the production history of these big cats I’ve turned to the David Byrden website. As mentioned above, for this kit David adds a few pointers to solve a few instruction discrepancies, some recommendations to modify a few small parts,  and advice on how to add a few small additions. Apart from adding the zimmerit, its pretty much all thats required.

Rye Field Models RM - 5086 1/35 StuH 42 & StuG. III Ausf G late production Chapter 5: Panzerwerk resin tracks

 Previous chapter

 

The Panzerwerk Design tracks arrived, and I could not wait to check them out. They thankfully arrived safely packaged. Inside the branded cardboard box there contained a small instruction sheet, two bags of links and two bags of half-pins (inner and outer) These bags were safely packaged inside small individual plastic boxes. Both the links and inner and outer link pins were nicely rendered, and all of the pins were of uniform length and arrow straight. There are 220 links and pins which is more than enough for both Pz.III and Pz.IV running gear. They assembled without any issue with zero breakages. Not one pin broke and they all engaged into each link with a satisfying and reassuring ‘click’ I must admit the carpet monster ate around three or four half-pins but that was totally self-inflicted. They articulate well and look absolutely stunning.

Rye Field Models RM - 5086 1/35 StuH 42 & StuG. III Ausf G late production Chapter 4: Alkett or MIAG?

 Previous chapter

 

As we have seen already, there are a few features that were unique to both the two manufacturers (Alkett or MIAG) that built the final batch of Ausf G's, but unlike Miniart, RFM do not specify which one they are representing. Most features you are instructed to add, do point to an Alkett built vehicle; however, a few others have been confused. If you know what features are particular to each manufacturer then it makes it easier to differentiate, and the inclusion in the kit of almost all the features of both, is a big plus. If depicting an Alkett build, it is worth noting that RFM only include the original round type MIAG installed tow cable brackets. Alkett brackets were a unique square shape and as the kit part is moulded to the tow hooks, they ideally will need to be replaced along with aftermarket copper braided tow cables. Both Modelkasten and Panzerwerk-Design offer these brackets. Observing the details on the Alkett track guards; the tubular supports are not quite as faithfully represented as they could be. The shape is not 100% accurate, but inclusion of photoetch strengthening ribs improve the overall appearance. The rear convoy light RFM provide is not one that either manufacturer fitted. It should be of the tube type design. These can be found as spares in many Panzer kits. I believe RFM’s own Panther kit have them. 

Comparing 1/35 aftermarket 3D printed tracks (2024)

Aftermarket track links are not cheap. Let’s get that out of the way first. Often as much as 50% the price of a kit! Whether you think they are good value and will enhance a build will be down to personal preference. Although kit manufacturers have made great strides in improving what they now offer in their kits, whether it be individual tracks, workable, or the link and length type, there is no denying that the workable type have a huge advantage over the conventional fixed or rubber band type.  The natural sag that a set of workable links exhibit is difficult to replicate. It can be done but it is not always straight forward. Whilst Friul metal tracks were once the go to aftermarket tracks, let us look at some recent additions to a rook of 3D printed tracks that have recently hit the market.

 

Rye Field Models RM - 5086 1/35 StuH 42 & StuG. III Ausf G late production Chapter 3: Gun box, engine deck and fixing the loaders front armour plate

Previous chapter

 

I’m currently building up the engine deck which comes as a separate moulding but I’m not going to attach all the parts permanently until I can confirm how the Legends Production stowage I have just ordered is contoured to fit. 

 

Engine deck, armoured engine hatches and gun box roof still dry fitted.

Rye Field Models RM - 5086 1/35 StuH 42 & StuG. III Ausf G late production Chapter 2: Construction fixes

Previous chapter

 

One construction fix which was pointed out to me by a fellow modeller, involves two strengthening ribs (parts D13 & D14), which you are instructed to add to the undersides of the gun box in step 13. What they do in essence, is create a channel which allows the gun box to align squarely onto both of the thin lower hull side plates. The problem is that they only need to be fixed a fraction off and the channel will become too narrow. To remedy this potential fit issue, you just need to attach the parts directly to the lower hull instead. There are alignment slots in the lower hull side plates too, so it’s a really simple fix.

 

 

Rye Field Models RM - 5086 1/35 StuH 42 & StuG. III Ausf G late production Chapter 1: Whats in the box & construction begins

 

Having recently finished building RFM’s Panzer IV Ausf J and currently still having lots of fun with their Panzer IV Ausf J interior kit, I really fancied tackling another one of their 1/35 armour kits. This year I’ve not started another soft skin, which is what I mainly build, as these kits have just been such a pleasurable experience. The engineering is so good, and the plastic such a similar colour match, that I keep thinking I’m building a Tamya kit😉  

 

Dragon 6253 1/35 Tiger I Late production Chapter 1: Whats all the fuss about?

With the 80th D-Day anniversary just around the corner and just the one decade on since I purchased this, I have finaly got round to popping the lid.

What can I say about this kit? Well after 19 years since its release it still looks to be the gold standard of Tiger I kits. Tiger guru David Byrden had a hand with technical advice with this one and his website https://tiger1.info/ is invaluable to anybody who likes to model these big cats. He even has a page dedicated to pointing out both errors and fixes for pretty much every Tiger 1 released to date https://tiger1.info/kits.html Scrolling down to this particular kit https://tiger1.info/models/products-page/DR6253 we still have a few small bugs to address. No big issues, but a few little anamolies that David points out and advises how to solve. Looking at all the current big box Takom builds on the tinterweb, I notice even these brand new releases still have there issues. Some of which were not present on this kit 19 years ago The one big bonus over this Dragon kit and one that the current crop of Tiger I late kits over the last decade have adopted, is the inclusion of moulded on zimmerit. Although some folks still prefer to make there own or use resin sets, I think the majority of modellers welcome this.

Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (sWS) armoured cargo version. Chapter 7: Setting the tone (Applying wet and dry mud effects to the chassis and running gear)

As I would like to represent this vehicle in a late 1944 ETO setting the wet and damp conditions will require a darker coloured pin wash to add to the muddy running gear and lift the contrast to the monochrome base coat. More vibrant colours will be added by way of the accessories in the load area.

Rye Field Models RM-5033 1/35 2 in 1 Panzer IV Ausf J Chapter 7: Drathgelflechtschurzen (mesh space armour)

Construction of the  Drathgelflechtschurzen (mesh space armour). In these steps you can build the kit up without the tubular rails altogether, by simply adding blanking plates to the upper hull. To replicate this option accurately you would have to drill lots of very small holes in the track guard side profiles where the lower brackets would have attached. That will involve a very fine drill and a very steady hand!

 

The tubular top rail provided only comes with cut-outs for the mesh panel brackets. There is no tubular rail without any cut-outs to display a completely empty rail. If you wanted to display the odd mesh panel missing, you would have to fill some cut-outs. I notice RFM in one of their CAD images simple show the brackets attached to the rail where a central mesh panel is missing which is a little strange. In reality the bracket was welded or bolted to the panel and clipped and bolted over the rail. The upper brackets connect the tubular rail to the rear of the schurzen panels. The lower brackets connect the rear of the schurzen panel to the track guards. These lower brackets are in two parts to allow for two fitment postitions. This was to enable the use of wider Winterketten/Ostketten tracks. The upper rail brackets are in one part and has two fixed positions, whereas the track guard brackets had to be adjusted to sit further out to accept the wider track type. The outer portion of the bracket needs to be positioned horizontally to clear the wider track type. In step 17 these are only shown fitted in the vertical position to accept the regular tracks included in the kit. The real bracket was hinged but you need to decide which perminant option you want beforehand (unless you fancy drilling and pinning all eight brackets!)

 

Rye Field Models RM-5033 1/35 2 in 1 Panzer IV Ausf J Chapter 6: Tracks

RFM offer individual links together with a fitting jig. They are an appropriate type for the vehicle. Along with this out of the box solution I had quite a few other options. First up I had the three-return roller link and length tracks leftover from the Border kit. In addition I also had two 3D printed aftermarket sets.  T-Rex and QuickTrack. As I hadn't yet tried them, I finally opted for the QuickTrack snap fit set.

These are type 7 links and come in two bags for both left and right fitting. A small bag with a few open links and wire, to which you can thread through to close a completed track loop is also included. Both runs were built up in an alarmingly quick 20mins. They do indeed simply snap together and are far more robust than they look once assembled. 

Rye Field Models RM-5033 1/35 2 in 1 Panzer IV Ausf J Chapter 5: Turret

 

With the upper hull fitment conundrum behind me it was time to move onto the turret.

The gun breach and cradle parts are exactly the same as on their interior kit. Although not called out, a few other interior items from this kit can be found on various sprue trees. There appears to be a few different boxings of this kit which will have slightly altered sprue layouts. Unfortunately, although the rotating turret floor moulding is present both are missing the crucial bracket parts that would enable you to add it to the turret surround. However, even with what is available, there is still plenty of detail to eyeball, shoud you model any turret hatches open.

Rye Field Models RM-5033 1/35 2 in 1 Panzer IV Ausf J Chapter 4: Track guards and upper hull

Putting asside the completed lower hull and running gear the next steps involve populating both track guards with all the pioneer tools and fittings. You are also instructed to assemble and fit the two part engine cooling louvres. These attach to the track guards before the Aufbau assemby is constructed and added. Again, everything fits extremely well. Unfortunately the C hooks were a bit of a disappointment. They both had two prominent and visible sink holes on one face and will require filler. I simply replaced one from the spares bin. I also sourced a 3D printed empty fire extinguisher holder.

Building the 8 ton Sd.Kfz. 7 Mittlerer Zugkraftwagen Chapter 14: Dragon kit: Adding a towed 3.7mm Flak gun

 Previous chapter

Whilst waiting for scenic supplies for the diorama base, it was time to start work on the towed vehicle. In this case a Flak 36/37. This was taken from the recently released Tamiya/ICM Renault AHN combo kit. As the Sd.Ah 52 trailer wheels had been removed in the image I used a set of 3D resin brake drums from a Sd.Ah56/57 trailer. To replicate the hub and wheel studs I sanded the rear of a pair of outer Sd.Kfz 251 wheels until just the central hub remained. These were then added to the 3D drums and fixed to the trailer axles. Looking at the image the trailer also had a few grab handles that were not present on the kit, so these were made up from copper wire.

Rye Field Models RM-5033 1/35 2 in 1 Panzer IV Ausf J Chapter 3: Building the lower hull and running gear

 

After inspecting all the contents and making a note of what might be available, but not actually called out in the instructions, I started with step one as per the instructions. As this was RFMs first Pz.IV kit, designed along with their interior kit released later that year, the lower hull is built up in sections to allow for additional interior detail. Any opening hatches come as separate items which is to be applauded. All the flatpack lower hull parts erect positively and cleanly and although there is no internal bracing to fit at this stage it all lines up straight and true. It is worth noting that due to the tight friction design of the sidewall to floor plate connection, some pressure does need to be exerted whilst the glue bonds, to ensure that both pieces sit completely flush along their whole length.

 

Rye Field Models RM-5033 1/35 2 in 1 Panzer IV Ausf J Chapter 2: Ausf J History and what variants can the kit build

A little bit of Ausf J history

The Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausführung J (Sd.Kfz. 161/2) is the ninth and the last variant of the Panzerkampfwagen IV medium tank family. This variant was distinguished by numerous simplifications made to prior variants to accelerate production and conserve valuable materials. This last variant included replacing the single-speed turret traverse electric power drive with a two-gear manual traverse, in favour of extra space used for fuel storage. This was a last-ditch effort to increase Panzer IV production rate and compensate for tank losses. 

Rye Field Models RM-5033 1/35 2 in 1 Panzer IV Ausf J. Chapter 1: Whats in the box?

My first foray into building a Pz.IV Ausf J was as a dual build. It was an interesting comparison between a mid naughties Dragon kit, considered one of their best Ausf J's releases, and Border Models 2019 released BT-008 kit.

Using the well researched Panzer Tracts No.4-3 publication once more, I would now tackle Ryefield Models (RFM) 2 in 1 kit RM-5033.

This was released at the same time as their interior kit 5043 and uses similar flat pack engineering to create the Wanne (Hull tub). Kit 5033 allows you to build both a gun tank and an artillery observation tank. The instructions have you build the gun tank option with a three return roller Wanne, with extended side towing eyes. This is also how you are instructed to build up the gun tank in kit 5043. However, although not instructed to, you do get the choice to backdate the gun tank in both kits to a slightly earlier production variant, without some of the very last features. All the parts are available on the sprues.

This is a kit I have very much been looking forward to building.  It will be my first RFM kit and I have only heard goods things about them as a manufacturer. Although I understand purests have spotted some accuracy issues, the kit engineering is much lauded. So without further ado lets get started.

Building the 8 ton Sd.Kfz. 7 Mittlerer Zugkraftwagen Chapter 13: Dragon kit: adding accessories

 Previous chapter

It was time to test fit the painted accessories onto both the load area and cab ready for final fixing.  I suspect a few items will still have to be removed or placement tweaked but I'm nearly there.  Less is more and all that!  The green stuff sculpted tarps were made almost 10 years ago and are very crude in places. As some are fixed in place, they will require a little more work to make them look like convincing tarps, blankets, and clothing. I might have to resort to placing some extra material over certain areas to disguise some overscale edges etc. 

 

 Chapter 14

Building the 8 ton Sd.Kfz. 7 Mittlerer Zugkraftwagen Chapter 12: Dragon kit track fitment

 

 Previous chapter

With the difficult to access undersides of the vehicle now weathered, it was time to attach the running gear. The wheels have been weathered and the task of lining them all up went without incident. It is always a delicate mission getting all these overlapping and interleaved components to fit as they did before paint.  The wheel fit to the axles was a tad loose upon building, so a little paint from airbrushing on both has now made the fit nice and snug. As a result, I deliberately left the middle row pairs un-glued, so I had some wiggle room, and relied on attaching the inner and outer pairs to their axles instead.